DESCRIPTION 


HUTCHINGS’  • 

‘  *  0 

GRAND  CLASSICAL  PANORAMA 


THE  SEA  AND  SHORES 

0  F 


THE 


EXECUTED  BY  A.  HEWINS, 

♦  * 

FROM  THE  ORIGINAL  ORA VYINoS  mark  by  ttiat  artist  upon  the  spot,  expressly 
I  OR  THE  PURPOSE,  DUKIXO  HIS  RESIDENCE  AT  GIBRALTAR,  HIS  VOYAGES  IN 
THE  MEDITERRANEAN,  AND  HIS  TRAVELS  IN  SPAIN,  FRANCE,  AND  ITALY. 


BOSTON : 

GEORGE  C.  RAND  AND  COMPANY’S  PRINTING  HOUSE,  COENIIILL. 

1  848. 


TO  THE  PUBLIC. 


Perhaps  there  is  no  method  by  which  instruction  and  amusement  can 
be  so  happily  blended  and  imparted,  as  by  means  of  illustrations  and 
lectures  combined. 

The  well  conceived  and  finished  painting  fills  thft  eye,  while  the 
voice  of  the  speaker  penetrates  the  car  and  secures  the  attention  of  the 
spectator. 

It  is  surprising,  that  illustrations  and  lectures  have  not  been  employed 
to  a  greater  extent  —  hand  in  hand  —  for  the  promotion  of  education  or 
the  advancement  of  knowledge. 

The  interest,  the  force,  and  utility  —  the  very  pleasure — all  the 
effect  of  the  best  prepared  discourse,  may  be  augmented  many  fold, 
through  the  medium  of  appropriate,  elegant,  or  admiz'ably  designed  and 
executed  illustrations. 

Impressed  by  experience  with  the  truth  and  importance  of  these  con¬ 
clusions,  ami  desirous  of  contributing  something  to  learning  and  the 
arts,  and  with  the  hope  of  proving  to  the  world  that  the  characteristics, 
even  the  great  geographic  features,  of  foreign  lands  may  be  accurate¬ 
ly  traced  by  an  American  pencil,  and  successfully  depicted  by  an 
American  artist,  as  the  not  less  remarkable  though  more  familiar  scenery 
of  our  own  native  soil,  1  now  present  to  the  public, 


THE 


(IRANI)  CLASSICAL  PANORAMA  OP  THE 
AND  SHORES  OF  THE  MEDITERRANEAN. 


SEA 


The  Idea  of  this  new  and  extensive  Panorama,  originated  with  our 
countryman,  Mr.  A.  IIewins,  of  Boston.  The  design  of  it  is  his  alone  ; 
and  the  whole  work  has  been  executed  under  the  superintendence  of 
that  indefatigable  and  accomplished  artist  —  with  such  aid  as  could  be 
afforded  by  one  of  his  pupils  and  myself. 

And  this  new  and  great  Panorama  has  been  executed  from  drawings 
made  upon  the  spot,  expressly  for  the  purpose,  by  Mr.  IIewins  himself. 
The  first  drawing  was  taken  in  1830  ;  and  the  remaining  drawings  in 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2019  with  funding  from 
Getty  Research  Institute 


https://archive.org/details/descriptionofhutOOhewi 


4 


1'uat  yc-ar  and  in  1831,  1832,  1S33,  1841  and  1842  —  while  Mr.  Hewins 
resided  at  Gibraltar,  in  the  course  of  his  different  voyages  up  and  down 
the  Mediterranean  Sea;  during  his  studies  as  a  Portrait  and  Historical 
Painter  at  the  Royal  Academies  of  Painting,  and  the  practice  of  his 
profession  in  Spain,  France,  and  Italy  ;  and  during  his  travels  in  those 
kingdoms,*  and  other  portions  of  the  Old  World.  While  thus  making 
his  drawings  in  the  several  countries  and  during  the  years  above  men¬ 
tioned,  Mr.  Hewins  was  also  collecting,  as  opportunity  permitted,  all 
such  information  as  might  be  of  service  in  the  performance  of  his  task  ; 
and  both  then  and  since  bis  return  to  the  place  <>f  his  nativity,  he  has 
consulted  from  time  to  time,  the  productions  of  the  most  celebrated 
authors  and  artists,  and  compared  them  with  his  own  original  sketches, 
notes,  drawings,  and  observations,  with  the  view  of  rendering  his  labors 
as  truthful,  complete,  and  successful  as  possible. 

Hav  iug  thus  gathered  together  all  his  materials,  instead  of  proceed¬ 
ing  with  them  here,  he  was  about  preparing  to  go  elsewhere,  when  his 
general  design  was  communicated  to  me.  Struck  with  its  originality, 
variety,  and  magnitude,  1  at  once  entered  into  an  arrangement  with  him 
for  its  immediate  completion  and  production  in  the  United  States. 

It  is  now  done.  It  is  the  first  and  only  Panorama  of  the  Sea  and 
Shores  of  the  Mediterranean  ever  painted. 

It  is  the  only  Panorama  of  “  coasts,  cities,  countries,  and  sea  beyond 
the  oceans,”  ever  executed  by  native  artists. 

And  it  is  one  of  the  most  comprehensive  and  diversified,  as  well  as 
extensive  Panoramas,  ever  presented  to  the  public. 

Indeed,  no  pains  nor  expense  has  been  spared  to  render  it  not  only 
worthy  of  the  vastness  and  grandeur  of  the  subject,  but  superior  in 
every  respect  to  anything  of  the  kind  heretofore  known  or  attempted. 

But  its  artislicul  merits  must  speak  for  themselves ;  and  leaving  them 
to  do  so,  the  attention  of  the  reader  is  now  invited  to  the  subjoined  brief 
descriptions  of  the  principal  cities,  towns,  and  places,  the  scenery,  and 
other  objects  represented  upon  the  canvass. 

W.  E.  Hutchings. 

*  There  were  several  American  painters  in  France,  Spain  and  Italy,  when  Mr.  Hewins 
resided  in  those  countries ;  but  it  is  believed  that  no  other  American  artist  has  visited  so 
many  parts  of  Spain,  or  made  so  many  voyages  in  the  Mediterranean,  as  Mr.  Hewins. 


DESCRIPTION. 


The  Panorama  is  composed  of  four  grand  divisions  ; 
and  the  most  prominent  features  of  each  division  will  be 
briefly  spoken  of  in  their  natural  order,  after  the  following- 
remarks  upon 

THE  MEDITERRANEAN  SEA. 

It  lias  been  well  said  In  an  eminent  writer,  that,  to  the 
scholar  and  classical  traveller,  the  Mediterranean  has  the 
most  powerful  attractions.  Her  shores  were  the  earliest 
seats  of  art,  science,  and  civilization.  She  has  been  sur¬ 
rounded  and  occupied  by  the  most  renowned  nations  of 
antiquity;  and  her  coasts  and  islands  have  still  to  boast 
the  ruins  of  some  of  the  noblest  and  most  splendid  cities 
of  the  ancient  world.  In  short,  to  use  the  language  of 
Dr.  Johnson,  -  The  (fraud  object  of  all  travelling ,  is  to  see 
the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  On  these  shores  were 
the  four  great  empires  of  the  world:  the  Assyrian,  the 
Persian,  the  Grecian,  and  the  Roman.  All  our  religion, 
almost  all  our  law,  almost  all  our  arts,  almost  all  that  sets 
u?5  above  savages,  has  come  to  us  from  the  shores  of  the 
M  editerranoan.” 

This  great  and  important  inland  sea.  is  bounded  N.  In 
Europe.  E.  In  Asia,  and  S.  by  Africa,  communicating  at 
its  W.  extremitv,  bv  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  with  the  N. 
Atlantic  Ocean,  and  at  its  N.  E.  extremity,  by  the  Darda¬ 
nelles  and  Bosphorus,  with  tin-  Euxinc  ;  its  greatest  length 
being  2,300  miles,  and  its  greatest  breadth  1,200;  and  its 
area  nearly  690,000  square  miles.  It  is  of  an  oblong  but 
irregular  shape,  particularly  on  its  N.  side,  into  which  pro- 


■ 


6 


ject  the  two  extensive  peninsulas  of  Italy  and  Greece, 
dividing  the  waters  into  not  less  than  three  basins  ;  the 
most  westerly  is  included  between  the  straits  of  Gibraltar 
and  the  passage  but  72  miles  broad  between  C.  Boeo  and 
C.  Bon ;  the  central  from  the  last  mentioned  points  to  the 
meridian  of  C.  Matapan  ;  while  the  eastern  comprises  the 
Grecian  Archipelago  and  the  waters  washing  Karamania. 
Syria,  and  Egypt.  The  bays  of  Lyons,  Genoa,  and  Naples, 
are  the  principal  inlets  of  the  W.  basin.  It  contains  the  Ba¬ 
learic  group,  off  the  coast  of  Spain,  and  many  other  islands. 
The  coasts  are  remarkable  for  difference  of  altitude  and 
diversity  of  outline.  Now  steep  and  bold,  now  low  and 
shelving — here  and  there  varied  by  rocky  headlands.  The 
submarine  rocks  and  projecting  shoals  of  sand  and  mud  of 
portions  of  the  S.  side  contrast  strikingly  with  the  X.,  where 
in  general  deep  soundings  may  be  had  close  inshore  ;  while 
in  parts,  between  Nice  and  Genoa  and  near  Gibraltar,  no 
soundings  can  be  found  under  1,000  fathoms  or  more. 

The  principal  feeders  are  the  Rhone,  Ebro,  Po,  and  Nile, 
with  the  waters  urged  from  the  Black  sea  by  the  strong 
current  which  sets  west  through  the  Dardanelles.  The 
supply  from  these  sources  is  vast,  yet  the  evaporation  is  so 
rapid  that  water  constantly  passes  in  through  the  Straits  of 
Gibraltar  to  restore  the  equilibrium.  It  is  not  strictly  a 
tideless  sea,  as  has  of  old  been  concluded  ;  for  at  Naples, 
and  on  both  shores  of  the  last  mentioned  straits,  there  is 
an  ebb  and  flow  of  three  feet  and  upwards,  besides  an  ebb 
and  flow  in  other  quarters ;  but  whether  these  are  attrib¬ 
utable  to  lunar  or  other  influences,  is  not  known. 

In  the  straits  of  Gibraltar  the  main  current  sets  east¬ 
ward,  at  a  rate  of  from  three  to  five  miles  an  hour ;  and 
an  under-current  has  long  been  supposed  to  run  in  an  op¬ 
posite  direction.  The  winds  are  extremely  variable,  and 
three  or  four  vessels  may  occasionally  be  seen  with  their 
flags  flying  in  opposite  directions  at  the  same  time.  The 
Bom,  the  Tramountain,  and  the  Sirocco  winds,  are  peculiar 
to  this  sea.  Volcanic  phenomena  have  frequently  been 
observed,  and  electric  fluid  abounds  in  the  atmosphere. 

In  the  scriptures  the  Mediterranean  is  terauxl,  “  The 
Great  Sea.”  Herodotus  styles  it  u  The  Sea  ;  ”  and  Strabo 


Ci  The  Sea  within  the  columns  ;  ”  meaning  the  pillars  of 
Hercules.  In  all  probability  it  witnessed  the  first  attempt 
at  navigation  —  being,  from  the  general  smoothness  of  its 
waters,  the  proximity  of  its  shores,  and  the  multitude  of  its 
islands,  extremely  favorable  to  the  infant  navigation  of  the 
world  — when,  from  their  ignorance  of  the  compass,  men 
feared  to  lose  a  view  of  the  coast,  and  from  the  imperfec¬ 
tion  in  the  art  of  ship-building,  to  abandon  themselves  to 
the  boisterous  waves  of  the  ocean.  At  all  events  it  was  nav¬ 
igated  and  its  islands  occupied  in  the  remotest  antiquity. 
It  was  subsequently  traversed  in  all  directions  by  the  Phe- 
nicians  and  their  descendants,  the  Carthagenians,  and  in  a 
later  period  by  the  Greeks  and  Romans.  In  the  middle 
ages,  and  down  to  the  discovery  of  America,  it  was  the 
grand  centre  of  the  navigation  and  commerce  of  the  old 
world;  while,  from  that  day  to  the  present,  the  ships  of 
all  nations  have  whitened  it ;  *  and  many  of  its  merchants, 
engrossing  from  time  to  time  large  portions  of  its  trade, 
have  attained  to  princely  fortunes  and  distinction.  The 
ensign  of  Liberty  is  now  waving  upon  that  sea.  The  vast 
changes  it  is  undergoing,  the  mighty  revolutions  that  are 
at  this  moment  sweeping  along  its  borders,  seem  to  indi¬ 
cate  that  the  period  is  approaching  for  the  fulfilment  of 
the  prophecy,  that,  in  wonders  and  glory,  the  Mediterra¬ 
nean  shall  outstrip  all  its  ancient  splendor  and  greatness. 


FIRST  DIVISION. 


GIBRALTAR. 

Situated  in  the  southern  extremity  of  Spain,  in  the  prov¬ 
ince  of  Andalusia,  at  the  entrance  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Mediterranean,  in  hit.  36°  7'  north,  long.  5°  19'  4U  west,  it 
extends  from  north  to  south  between  seven  an  eight  miles, 
is  nearly  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  rises  at  least  1,450 
feet  from  the  sea.  It  is  every  where  precipitous,  and  in 

*  More  than  one  hundred  vessels  may  at  times  be  seen  passing  through  the  straits  of 
Gibraltar  at  once. 


8 


many  parts  perpendicular.  Nature  and  art  combined  have 
rendered  it  the  most  formidable  fortress  in  the  world.  It 
is  now  in  the  possession  of  the  English,  having  been  cap¬ 
tured  from  the  Spanish,  in  1704,  by  the  British  squadron 
under  Sir  George  Rook. 

This  promontory  has  been  celebrated  from  remote  an¬ 
tiquity  ;  its  ancient  name  was  ( 'alpe.  On  the  African 
coast  opposite  is  another  promontory  called  Abyla,  These 
two  promontories  were  styled  by  the  ancients,  “  The  Pil¬ 
lars  of  Hercules ;  ”  probably  to  indicate  the  termi  nation 
here  of  his  various  labors.  * 

The  noble  bay  of  Gibraltar,  nine  miles  long  and  five 
broad,  forms  a  most  important  naval  station.  On  the  east 
are  the  promontory  and  isthmus  ;  to  the  south  is  the  sea  ; 
to  the  west  and  north  is  the  main  land  of  Spain ;  but  the 
promontory  wholly  commands  the  bay. 

The  town  of  Gibraltar  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  prom¬ 
ontory  on  its  north-west  side ;  and,  though  fortified  in  it¬ 
self  its  chief  protection  is  derived  from  the  batteries  on  the 
neighboring  heights,  which  sweep  both  the  isthmus  and 
the  approach  to  the  town  by  water.  The  population  of  the 
town,  exclusive  of  the  garrison,  is  13,000  —  composed  of 
Englishmen,  Spaniards,  Italians,  Jews,  and  Moors,  all  at¬ 
tracted  by  mercantile  enterprise.  The  place  is  a  general 
port  of  entry  for  the  manufactures  of  England,  and  other 
produce,  such  as  sugar,  tobacco,  rice,  flour,  wine,  silk, 
fruits,  and  wax.  The  chief  public  buildings  are  the  navy 
hospital,  victualling  office,  the  barracks,  and  the  house  of 
the  Lieut.  Governor.  The  places  of  worship  are  an  Eng¬ 
lish  church,  a  Catholic  chapel,  and  three  synagogues. 
There  is  also  a  theatre,  and,  what  is  of  great  importance 
to  officers  stationed  in  this  secluded  spot,  a  Garrison  Li¬ 
brary.  The  town  was  nearly  destroyed  during  the  mem¬ 
orable  siege  of  the  combined  powers  of  Spain  and  France 
in  1781-2.  An  English  squadron  arriving  with  rein¬ 
forcements  compelled  the  enemy  to  convert  the  siege  into 
a  mere  blockade,  which  terminated  on  the  20th  of  Janua¬ 
ry,  1783,  when  peace  was  signed  at  Versailles.  The  vet¬ 
eran  General  Elliot  received  distinguished  honors  for  his 
heroic  defence  of  this  invulnerable  fortress  ;  one  of  the 


. 

9 


brightest  and  most  envied  gems  in  the  naval  crown  of 
Great  Britain.  Immense  sums  have  been  expended  by 
the  English  in  constructing  new  batteries  and  making  ex¬ 
tensive  excavations  to  establish  communications  between 
the  different  ports,  and  more  than  a  thousand  cannon  are 
mounted  within  these  excavations  and  galleries.  The 
present  pence  establishment  amounts  to  about  5,000 
troops,  and  in  case  of  invasion  15,000  can  be  mustered 
within  the  fortresses  and  excavations.  The  support  of 
this  fortification  alone  is  a  yearly  expense  of  40,000 
pounds  sterling. 

With  these  brief  remarks,  we  leave  the  Bock  of  Gibral¬ 
tar,  standing  as  it  has  stood  for  ages,  in  all  its  grand  and 
gloomy  sublimity. 


“  And  leave  the  deep  aud  quiet  bay, 

To  tern pt  the  ocean  wave : 

And  o’er  the  water?  hold  our  way, 

Which  classic  region?  lave.-’ 

CEUTA, 

Is  a  seaport  town  of  X.  Africa,  in  the  possession  of 
Spain,  coast  of  Morocco,  directly  opposite  Gibraltar,  and 
at  the  S.  E.  extremity  of  the  straits,  on  a  narrow  peninsu¬ 
la,  stretching  about  three  miles  E.  X.  E.  into  the  Mediter¬ 
ranean,  and  having  a  capacious  bay  on  its  S.,  and  a  small¬ 
er  one  on  its  N.  side.  The  E.  part  of  the  peninsula  is 
occupied  by  the  mountain  of  Almina,  on  the  highest  point 
of  which  is  the  castle  of  Ceuta,  14  miles  S.  by  E.  from 
Europe  point ;  lat.  45°  54'  4"  X.,  long.  5°  11'  W.  This 
mountain,  which  towards  the  sea  is  fenced  round  by  in¬ 
accessible  rocks,  is  the  Ain  la  Proper  of  the  ancients,  and 
is  famous  as  one  of  the  pillars  of  Hercules ;  the  rock  of 
Gibraltar  being  the  other.  The  citadel,  a  verv  strong 
fort,  is  built  across  tin*  narrowest  and  lowest  part  of  the 
peninsula,  at  its  junction  with  the  main  land.  The  town 
immediately  to  the  E.  of  the  citadel,  is  situated  at  the 
foot  and  on  the  declivity  of  the  mountain.  Population, 
besides  the  garrison,  9, '241.  Ceuta  has  many  points  of 
resemblance  with  Gibraltar,  and  like  it,  if  properly  garri- 


10 


soncd,  would  be  all  but  impregnable.  It  is  well  supplied 
with  water,  is  the  seat  of  a  bishopric,  has  a  cathedral,  two 
convents,  a  hospital,  a  baqne  or  prison  for  criminals  em¬ 
ployed  on  the  public  works,  with  schools,  &c.  It  is  also 
used  for  the  confinement  of  State  prisoners.  It  is  the 
most  important  of  all  the  Spanish  presidios,  or  settlements 
in  Africa,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  military  governor,  a  royal 
tribunal,  and  a  financial  intendant.  Most  of  the  provis¬ 
ions  and  other  necessaries  required  for  the  supply  of  the 
town  and  garrison  are  brought  from  Spain.  Ceuta  was 
taken  from  the  Moors,  by  John,  King  of  Portugal,  in  1415. 
Since  1640  it  has  belonged  to  Spain.  It  lias  been  several 
times  besieged  by  the  Africans,  especially  in  1697. 

MALAGA. 

This  is  a  fine  maratime  town  in  the  province  of  Grana¬ 
da,  containing  60,000  inhabitants,  in  lat.  36°  48",  Ion.  4° 
25".  The  Pcehnicians  built  this  city  several  centuries  be¬ 
fore  Christ,  and  called  it  Madia,  on  account  of  the  great 
quantities  of  salt  fish  sold  here.  The  city  still  retains 
much  of  its  old  Moorish  appearance — the  houses  high, 
the  streets  narrow,  and  poorly  paved  ;  and  it  being  located 
at  the  base  of  a  high  mountain,  it  is  excessively  hot  for 
eight  months  in  the  year.  It  has  an  excellent  harbor, 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  very  fertile  country,  abounding  in 
figs,  almonds,  oranges,  lemons,  olives,  wax,  and  honey ; 
which  with  dried  raisins,  and  wines  from  the  mountains, 
and  cork  from  the  hills,  form  the  foundation  of  its  com¬ 
merce.  The  port  is  enclosed  on  three  sides,  and  can  ac¬ 
commodate  four  hundred  merchantmen  and  twenty  ships 
of  war  at  the  same  time.  The  vineyards  of  the  neighbor¬ 
ing  hills  produce  from  two  to  three  thousand  pipes  of  vine 
annually.  The  first  vintage,  in  June,  furnishes  the  Mal¬ 
aga  wane.  The  second,  in  September,  furnishes  a  kind  of 
w'ine  much  like,  but  inferior  to  Sherry.  In  October  and 
November  the  sweet  Malaga  is  manufactured. 

The  great  national,  popular,  and  exciting  amusements 
of  the  Spanish  Amphitheatre,  are  here  introduced.  These 
exhibitions  are  frequented  by  the  Queen  and  all  the  no- 


11 


bility  of  the  land;  not  only  in  the  principal  cities  on  the 
coast  of  the  Mediterranean,  but  in  every  city  and  town 
of  importance  throughout  the  entire  country  ;  and  when 
an  wncriean  for  the  first  time  enters  this  tine,  imposing 
circus,  disposed  in  amphitheatre,  crowded  with  twenty 
thousand  spectators,  of  different  manners,  costumes,  and 
character,  and  hears  the  deafening  ebullitions  of  their 
gaiety,  the  shouts  of  mutual  recognition  exchanged  be¬ 
tween  all  parts  of  the  assembly,  it  is  impossible  for  him 
not  to  feel  an  electrical  quickening  of  the  blood  which  lie 
lias  never  before  experienced.  lie  beholds  in  the  gaily 
adorned  boxes,  galleries,  and  pit,  every  gradation  of  toilet, 
from  the  rich  aristocratic  mantilla,  or  Gallic  bonnet 
of  the  ladies  of  rank,  whose  enjoyment  of  the  sport  is  be¬ 
trayed  by  gentle  undulations  of  their  embroidered  cambric 
handkerchiefs,  in  honor  and  encouragement  of  the  bold 
Picador,  or  cool  Matador,  to  the  exquisitely  formed  and 
dark  glossy  ringlets  of  the  beautiful  peasant  girl.  Citi¬ 
zens,  soldiers,  and  provincials,  from  all  parts  of  Spain, 
fill  the  lower  benches,  and  make  up  in  noise  what  they 
want  in  elevation.  The  church  is  also  represented  ;  many 
a  well-fed  and  rosy  dean  and  friar  places  himself  in  corri¬ 
da  dc  toros  —  always  with  the  precaution,  however,  such 
as  they  are  wont  to  use  when  enjoying,  from  the  comer 
of  their  roguish  eye,  the  bew  itching  display  of  female 
charms  and  attractions  around  them. 


ALGERIA. 

V  town  in  the  province  of  Granada,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  of  the  same  name,  and  in  lat.  36°  d  1'  29",  long. 
2°  32',  and  contains  about  20,000  inhabitants.  The  har¬ 
bor  is  large  and  well  sheltered  and  protected.  The  ancient 
sovereigns  of  Granada  considered  this  as  the  most  im¬ 
portant  town  of  their  dominions,  on  account  of  the  fertil¬ 
ity  of  the  surrounding  country,  its  manufactures  and  com¬ 
merce*.  1’he  chief  exports  are  Barilla  and  lead.  The 
latter  is  from  some  of  the  most  extensive  mines  in  the 
world,  situated  a  few  miles  back  of  the  citv,  where  are  in 
constant  employment,  over  thirteen  thousand  men.  Be- 


12 


yond  the  town  is  a  view7  of  Sierra  Nevada,  the  highest 
mountain  in  Europe,  covered  with  eternal  snow.  The  ar¬ 
tist  informs  me  he  took  the  view  of  this  mountain  when 
he  was  nearly  sixty  miles  distant,  yet  it  appeared  to  rise 
out  of  the  sea  directly  above  him,  the  top  glistening  in 
the  sun  like  a  brilliant  star.  The  other  range  of  moun¬ 
tains  is  a  continuation  of  the  Granadas. 

Mr.  Hewins  spent  several  weeks  in  this  city,  and,  while 
taking  a  sketch  of  the  cathedral,  was  arrested  by  one  of 
their  police  officers,  but  was  immediately  released  on  in¬ 
forming  the  officer  of  his  letters  of  introduction  to  the 
English  consul  and  other  distinguished  citizens.  This 
city  is  cpiite  celebrated  in  the  history  of  the  Moors,  under 
whom  it  was  highly  prosperous  and  flourishing.  It  was 
the  port  where  the  Moors,  after  having  been  conquered 
by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  embarked  for  Africa,  about 
the  time  of  the  discovery  of  America  by  Columbus. 


CAPE  DE  GATA. 

A  promontory7  on  the  Granada  coast,  being  an  enor¬ 
mous  rock  of  a  singular  nature  and  appearance,  13  miles 
broad  and  24  in  circuit.  In  the  centre  of  this  promonto¬ 
ry  there  are  four  hills,  called  the  two  Friars,  the  Captain, 
and  the  White  mountain.  The  opposite  side  of  this  pro¬ 
montory  is  called  El  Puesto  de  la  Plata,  where  the  Moor¬ 
ish  corsairs  lie  in  wait  for  Spanish  and  other  vessels. 

CARTHAGENA. 

A  very  ancient  town  on  the  coast  of  the  Province  of 
Murcia,  with  considerable  trade ;  one  of  the  three  great 
naval  harbors  of  Spain,  and  one  of  the  best  ports  of  the 
Mediterranean.  The  basin  is  very  deep,  even  quite  close 
to  the  town.  The  hills  that  surround  it,  with  steep  as¬ 
cents,  and  an  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  protect 
the  vessels  from  all  winds.  It  contains  29,000  inhabitants, 
fine  wharves,  an  arsenal,  naval  hospital,  naval  school, 
mathematical,  and  nautical  and  pilot  academy,  an  obser¬ 
vatory,  botanical  garden,  numerous  churches  and  con¬ 
vents,  a  bagne ,  theatre,  circus,  and  sailcloth  factory  ;  has 


' 


13 


some  valuable  fisheries  and  some  trade  in  Barilla  silk, 
&c..  and  has  long  been  the  grand  rendezvous  of  the  Span¬ 
ish  fleets  in  the  Mediterranean.  In  the  neighborhood  of 
the  town,  the  Carthagenians  possessed  mines  of  silver,  of 
such  richness  that  Hannibal  was  enabled  to  carry  on  the 
war  against  the  Romans  out  of  their  produce.  There  are 
hot  springs  and  salt  mines  in  the  neighborhood.  The  town 
was  built  by  Asdrubal,  and  was  the  capital  of  the  posses¬ 
sions  of  the  Carthagenians  on  the  East  coast  of  Spain. 
When  taken  by  the  Romans,  208  B.  ('.,  it  is  said  by  Livy 
to  have  been,  next  to  Rome,  one  of  the  richest  cities  in 
the  world. 

CAPE  PALOS. 

Situated  in  the  province  of  Murcia,  twenty  miles  from 
Carthagena,  in  37°  37'  IS*.  Lat.,  0°  39'  W.  Lon.  It  is  a 
promontory  that  separates  the  bay  of  Carthagena  from 
that  of  Alicant.  The  watch  towers  that  are  to  be  seen 
upon  the  promontories  and  elevations  were  erected  for  the 
purpose  of  watching  and  telegraphing  vessels  that  passed 
near  the  coast.  The}  extend  throughout  the  coast  of 
Spain  upon  the  Mediterranean,  intelligence  being  con¬ 
voyed  from  one  to  the  other  with  almost  electrical  ve- 
locitv. 

ALICANT, 

Is  a  beautiful  and  rich  town  in  Valencia,  on  a  bay  of 
the  same  name,  in  lat.  38°  l(i'  Ion.  0°  20'.  It  contains 
about  18,000  inhabitants,  and  was  formerly  protected  by 
strong  castles  and  fortresses,  which  are  now  in  decay.  It 
is  the  see  of  a  bishop.  The  harbor  is  excellent,  and  all 
the  maritime  nations  have  vessels  at  this  port.  This,  like 
most  of  the  old  Spanish  towns,  is  surrounded  by  a  high 
wall,  and  although  built  by  its  former  possessors,  the 
Moors,  is  still  in  a  remarkable  state  of  preservation.  The 
principal  articles  of  export  are  fruits,  rosemary,  and  an 
excellent  wine  called  Alicant.  The  wine  is  exceedingly 
sweet,  and  and  is  principally  sent  to  England.  The  first 
grape  vinos  were  planted  here  by  Charles  V.,  the  shoots 
having  been  previously  brought  from  the  Rhine.  It  is 


9 


■ 


14 


the  central  point  of  commerce  between  Spain  and  Italy, 
and  is  the  Emporium  of  Valencia  produce. 


IVICA. 


This  island  forms  one  of  the  Balearic  group,  belonging 
to  Spain,  in  the  Mediterranean.  It  is  50  miles  from  Va¬ 
lencia,  and  42  from  Majorca,  of  an  irregular,  five-sided 
figure,  27  miles  in  length,  with  an  average  breadth  of  15. 
The  coast  is  indented  by  numerous  bays,  the  largest  being 
those  of  St.  Antonio  and  Joiza.  The  surface  is  hilly,  and 
in  many  parts  wooded;  but  there  are  many  picturesque 
and  fertile  valleys,  well  adapted  for  tillage.  The  climate 
is  similar  to  that  of  Catalonia  and  Valencia ;  the  winters 
are  so  mild  that  the  thermometer  seldom  falls  below 
130°  Reaum.,  and  the  heats  of  summer  are  tempered  by 
sea  breezes.  The  chief  products  are  olives,  wine,  com, 
flax,  hemp,  and  different  kinds  of  fruits,  especially  figs, 
for  which  it  was  celebrated  even  in  the  time  of  the  elder 
Pliny.  Salt  is  a  chief  article  of  exportation,  large  flocks 
of  sheep  are  pastured  on  the  hills,  and  the  sea  near  the 
coast  abounds  with  fish,  the  capture  of  which  gives  em¬ 
ployment  to  many  inhabitants.  But,  notwithstanding 
these  advantages,  the  island  is  in  great  poverty,  owing  to 
the  indolence  of  the  people,  and  their  slovenly  mode  of 
tillage.  The  Ivicans  are  of  middle  size,  shrunk  and  sal¬ 
low,  and  speak  a  language  similar  to  that  spoken  in  Cat¬ 
alonia  and  Valencia,  being  a  corrupt  dialect  of  the  an¬ 
cient  Romaunce,  once  the  common  language  of  all  South 
Europe. 

The  capital,  Ivica,  on  the  S.  W.  side,  has  a  population 
of  5,720,  is  fortified,  has  a  good  harbor,  is  the  residence 
of  the  governor,  and  a  bishop’s  see.  The  chief  buildings 
are  a  cathedral,  six  churches,  two  convents,  two  hospitals, 
and  a  public  school  house. 

The  largest  of  the  two  islands,  called  by  Strabo,  Potyu- 
sae ,  or  the  pine-bearing  island,  was  early  occupied  by 
Phoenicians  and  Carthagenians,  and  hence  called  Ebosus 
Phaenissa  by  Lillius  Italicus.  It  was  taken  bvQ.  Metel- 
lus,  and  subject  to  the  Romans  and  their  successors,  the 


- 


15 


Vandals,  till  the  conquest  of  Spain,  by  the  Moors,  in  the 
eighth  century.  The  Spaniards  took  the  island  in  1294, 
and  attached  it  to  the  kingdom  of  Arragon,  since  which 
it  has  usually  followed  the  fortunes  of  the  larger  islands, 
Majorca  and  Minorca.  In  1706,  during  the  war  of  suc¬ 
cession,  it  submitted  to  Sir  John  Leake  with  the  British 
squadron,  and  was  ceded  to  England  with  Minorca  at  the 
peace  of  Utrecht.  In  1814  they  were  restored  to  Spain. 

MAJORCA. 

Majorca  is  the  largest  of  the  Belearic  islands  belonging 
to  Spain,  from  the  E.  coast  of  which  it  is  110  miles.  Its 
greatest  length  48  miles  ;  breadth,  42  miles  ;  and  has  a 
population  of  182,000.  Il  contains  only  two  towns  of 
importance,  and  28  villages,  the  rest  being  hamlets.  Nu¬ 
merous  farms  and  country  houses,  however,  arc*  scattered 
over  the  island,  and  in  all  the  fine  valleys  one  may  see 
elegant  villas,  in  which  the  higher  classes,  much  attached 
to  a  country  life,  spend  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  The 
roads  have  been  improved  of  late  years,  and  there  is  good 
communication  between  different  parts.  The  capital  of 
Majorca  is  Palma,  a  bay  on  the  south  of  the  island,  and 
having  a  population  of  34,343.  It  is  placed  in  a  delight¬ 
ful  country  and  strongly  fortified.  The  houses  are  large 
and  well  built,  but  the  streets  narrow,  dark,  and  ill  paved. 
The  chief  public  buildings  are  the  governor’s  palace, 
large,  with  extensive  gardens,  a  cathedral,  exchange,  town 
hall,  and  theatre.  Almost  the  whole  trade  of  the  island 
i>  concentrated  in  its  port.  The  road  of  Palma  affords 
excellent  protection  for  shipping,  except  during  storms 
from  the  S.  E.  ;  but  the  little  harbor,  Puerto-pi,  is  more 
secure,  and  furnishes  anchorage  for  the  largest  frigates. 
The  port  is  defended  by  two  well  fortified  castles. 

The  climate  of  Majorca  is  mild,  salubrious,  and  agree¬ 
able ;  the  thermometer  in  winter  scarcely  ever  falls  below 
48°,  its  average1  height  being  65°,  and  cold  strong  north 
winds  arc  rare.  The  temperature  varies  between  84°  and 
88°  Eahrcnheit.  but  the  heat  is  seldom  oppressive,  owing 
to  the  sea  breezes.  The  red,  loamy  soil  of  the  mountains, 


' 


• ! 


16 


though  stony,  is  rich,  producing  spontaneously  great 
numbers  of  wild  olives,  grapes,  &c.  In  the  plains  it  is 
less  fertile,  owing  to  the  superfluity  of  moisture  and  the 
absence  of  drainage.  Agriculture  is  in  a  rude  state  ;  and 
the  growth  of  corn,  which  in  wet  years  totally  fails,  meets 
only  half  the  consumption  ;  the  annual  imports  of  this  ar¬ 
ticle  being  about  6,000  fanegas.  Olives  are  raised  in  large 
quantities;  the  crops  averaging  180,000  arobas  yearly. 
The  fruit  is  smaller  than  that  of  Andalusia,  but  as  juicy 
as  the  best  Provence.  W  ine,  red  and  white,  is  abun¬ 
dant.  Considerable  quantities  are  exported,  and  much  is 
used  in  the  distillation  of  brandy.  Fruit  and  veeeta- 
hies,  especially  oranges,  tigs,  melons,  carobs,  pumpkins, 
and  cauliflowers,  grow  plentifully  and  attain  a  large  size. 
Quantities  of  saffron  are  also  produced  of  preferable  qual¬ 
ity  to  that  of  La  Mancha.  There  is  no  want  of  fine  pas¬ 
ture,  and  the  coast  swarms  with  fish  of  various  kinds  and 
good  quality. 

The  trade  of  Majorca  is  very  considerable ;  chiefly  with 
Spain,  France,  and  England.  The  inhabitants  bear  a 
striking  resemblance,  both  in  external  appearance  and  gen¬ 
eral  character  to  the  C'atalans  ;  being  equally  hardy,  cour¬ 
ageous,  blunt,  and  jealous  of  their  honor,  equally  indus¬ 
trious  and  ingenious,  equally  good  sailors  and  skilful  far¬ 
mers  with  their  continental  neighbors  ;  and  their  language 
is  in  fact  nothing  but  a  corrupt  dialect  of  the  Catalan. 

MINORCA. 

Port  Maiion.  This  is  the  capital,  and  one  of  the  very 
best  harbors  in  the  Mediterranean.  The  city  of  Mahon 
was  founded  by  the  celebrated  Carthagcnian  General,  Ma- 
go.  Many  historians  suppose  him  to  have  been  the 
brother  of  Flannibal  the  Great,  who  w  as  born  here.  These 
islands  received  the  name  of  Baleares  from  the  expertness 
of  the  natives  in  the  use  of  slings  ;  and  the  Carthagcnian 
armies  were  very  formidable  with  these  auxiliaries.  They 
were  accustomed  from  infancy  to  their  use ;  and  a  cele- 

V 

brated  historian  informs  us  that  the  Balearic  mothers 
placed  the  piece  of  bread  designed  for  their  children’s 


, 


17 


breakfast  upon  the  top  of  a  tree,  and  the  young  Baleari- 
ans  had  to  earn  their  food  by  bringing  it  down  with  their 
slings.  The  ruins  of  old  fortresses,  together  with  vast 
vaults,  ramparts,  terraces,  batteries,  and  barracks,  still  ex¬ 
isting,  and  contrasting  with  Roman  mounds,  Druid  and 
Spanish  monuments  and  altars,  walls,  towers,  gateways, 
and  Catholic  domes  —  all  these  tend  to  make  it  a  place 
very  interesting  to  the  traveller.  There  are  numerous 
orange  groves,  olive  trees,  and  clusters  of  palms,  ravines, 
craggy  glens,  beautiful  vineyards,  antique  terraces  and 
groups  of  picturesque  people!  The  population  of  the 
island  is  about  45,000.  It  is  thirty- three  miles  long  and 
nine  wide.  The  city  of  Mahon  contains  15,000  inhabi¬ 
tants.  This  is  the  principal  port  and  stopping  place  for 
vessels  that  are  passing  from  Toulon  to  Algiers.  Mount 
Toro  is  the  only  very  great  elevation  on  the  island,  and  in 
clear  weather  is  seen  far  out  at  sea.  It  is  about  5,000 
feet  in  height.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  dwell  in  extreme¬ 
ly  small  cottages,  but  they  ever  welcome  the  stranger  most 
cordially,  presenting  him  with  Mahon  wine,  oranges,  &c., 
and  saying  in  Spanish,  “  Casa  chica  corazon,  grande ,”  “big 
hearts  in  small  houses.” 


SECOND  DIVISION. 


VALENCIA. 

Valencia  is  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Valencia,  in 
Spain,  1H8  miles  E.  S.  E.  of  Madrid,  with  a  population 
of  65,840.  It  stands  on  the  Guadalavia  —  about  four 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  washes  its  walls, 
and  separates  it  from  its  suburbs.  The  city,  nearly  circu¬ 
lar,  is  about  2^  miles  round,  enclosed  by  massive  walls, 
with  towers,  and  four  gates.  The  old  streets  are  crooked, 
narrow,  and  unpaved,  but  some  new  quarters  have  broad 
streets  and  squares,  which  are  well  paved  and  kept.  It 
is  also  well  lighted,  and  guarded  by  patrols  termed  seve- 
nos.  It  is  furnished  with  sewers  of  great  solidity,  af- 


2* 


18 


firmed  to  have  been  constructed  by  the  Romans ;  and  has 
many  private  wells,  though  only  one  public  fountain. 
Good  quays  faced  with  stone,  and  planted  writh  trees,  line 
the  river  in  the  whole  length  of  the  city.  A  fine  view  is 
obtained  from  any  of  the  bridges ;  the  line  of  irregular 
buildings  following  the  course  of  the  river,  and  the 
bridges  one  beyond  another,  writh  great  Moorish  gates, 
give  it  an  air  of  grandeur.  Few  cities,  even  in  Spain, 
have,  or  had,  so  many  religious  edifices.  Among  these 
were  not  less  than  27  convents  for  men,  22  for  women, 
16  churches,  and  24  chapels  and  hermitages ;  so  that  the 
streets  abounded  with  friars  and  priests,  and  their  influ¬ 
ence  predominated.  The  cathedral,  of  Greek  and  Gothic 
architecture,  surmounted  by  a  dome,  has  numerous  altars, 
a  good  deal  of  fine  marble,  some  bas-reliefs,  and  paintings 
by  some  of  the  first  Spanish  masters  ;  and  is  very  rich  in 
plate  and  relics.  Some  of  the  churches  have  domes,  but 
the  greater  part,  tall,  slender  turrets,  with  all  sorts  of 
pilasters  and  whimsical  devices.  In  the  multitude  of  sa¬ 
cred  edifices,  some  excel  in  parts,  or  strike  by  the  richness 
of  their  decorations ;  but  all  are  overloaded  with  orna¬ 
ments.  In  most,  however,  arc  fine  paintings,  by  Juanes, 
Espinoza,  Ribalta,  Ramirez,  Victoria,  a  pupil  of  Carlo 
Maratti,  and  many  other  artists,  all  natives  of  Valencia. 
The  famous  Supper  of  Ribalta  is  in  the  Corpus  Christi 
college ;  and  the  same  subject  by  Juanes,  a  work  reck¬ 
oned  among  the  finest  pictures  in  Valencia,  is  in  the 
church  of  St.  Nicholas,  which  also  possesses  many  other 
splendid  paintings. 

The  exchange,  custom  house,  the  temple,  a  palace  built 
for  a  military  order,  by  Charles  III.,  the  archbishop’s 
palace,  college  of  Pius  I.,  and  several  noble  residences, 
are  w  orthy  of  notice ;  there  are  four  hospitals,  one  large 
establishment  for  medical  treatment,  several  asylums, 
prisons,  barracks,  a  theatre,  &c.  Valencia  is  one  of  those 
cities  in  which  traces  of  Moorish  dominion  are  the  most 
visible ;  not  in  any  splendid  Alhambra  or  Alcazar,  but  in 
every-day  sights  and  common  objects.  Gateways  are  seen 
sculptured  in  solid  marble  upon  Moorish  designs ;  stones 
over  the  doors,  or  underneath  the  windows,  show  by  their 


19 


chiselled  marks,  their  ancient  fashion.  All  the  Moorish 
tokens,  also,  distinguishing  the  populations  of  Seville, 
Malaga,  and  San  Felipe,  arc  found  in  even  greater  dis¬ 
tinctness  in  Valencia.  The  University,  founded  in  1411, 
was  formerly  considered  the  best  in  Spain,  particularly  for 
the  study  of  medicine.  In  1830,  it  had  2,500  students, 
principally  divided  between  law  and  philosophy.  The 
seventy  professors  are  friars,  except  those  of  law.  Educa¬ 
tion  in  the  University  is  nearly  gratuitous,  and  many  stu¬ 
dents  are  in  the  habit  of  receiving  portions  of  food  daily 
from  the  convents.  The  university  library  has  not  more 
than  1,500  volumes,  but  its  deficiencies  are  compensated 
by  a  good  library  in  the  archbishop's  palace,  with  cabinets 
of  antiquities,  models,  &c.,  open  for  six  hours  daily.  There 
are  six  other  colleges,  and  many  academies ;  the  royal 
academy  of  St.  diaries,  for  the  instruction  of  students  in 
the  fine  arts,  is  the  only  institution  not  under  the  super¬ 
intendence  of  priests. 

The  manufactures  of  velvets,  taffetas,  flowered  damasks, 
and  other  silks,  at  the  end  of  the  last  century,  employed 
upwards  of  3,000  looms  ;  but  have  greatly  declined  in  the 
interval.  The  existing  manufactures  comprise  woolen 
fabrics,  camlets,  hats,  linens,  gauzes,  artificial  flowers,  &c., 
with  the  “  V alencia  tiles,”  used  for  the  flooring  of  houses 
in  all  cities  in  the  south  of  Spain.  These  tiles  are  at  once 
cool,  and  highly  ornamental ;  but  they  are  far  from  cheap, 
those  of  the  best  quality  being  much  more  expensive  than 
an  equal  extent  of  the  most  superb  carpeting. 

The  port,  about  two  miles  distant,  is  connected  with  the 
city  by  a  broad-planted  avenue,  forming  the  favorite  pub¬ 
lic  promenade.  The  climate,  though  hot,  is  agreeable  and 
healthy  ;  and  the  city  a  good  deal  resorted  to  by  invalids. 
Many  persons  of  rank  and  wealth  reside  here,  but  without 
display.  Travellers  bear  testimony  to  the  vivacity,  ready 
wit,  freedom  from  affectation,  and  obliging  disposition  of 
the  inhabitants.  It  has  produced  many  distinguished  na¬ 
tives,  and  the  first  printing  press  introduced  into  Spain, 
was  established  here. 

Valencia  was  formerly  held  by  the  Moors  ;  but  taken 
from  them  by  the  celebrated  Cid,  Ruiz  de  Diaz  de  Bivar. 


20 


After  his  death,  it  successfully  sustained  under  his  widow 
Ximenc,  a  siege  against  the  Moors  of  Cordova,  but  ulti¬ 
mately  capitulated  to  them.  It  was  retaken  by  James  I., 
of  Arragon,  in  1 238,  and  peopled  afterwards  with  Catalans 
and  French  settlers.  It  was  conquered  by  Suchct,  in 
1812,  and  held  by  the  French,  till  June,  1813. 

BARCELONA. 

This  fine  old  Spanish  city  is  the  capital  of  the  Province 
of  Catalonia,  and  was  one  of  the  principal  seaports  of  the 
Mediterranean,  e\en  in  the  middle  ages.  It  is  between 
the  rivers  Pesos  and  Llobregat,  in  a  beautiful,  cultivated 
plain.  The  town  has  on  its  east  a  large  citadel,  built  in 
1715,  with  a  covered  way  to  the  battery  of  San  Carlos,  by 
the  sea.  On  the  west  is  the  high  fort  of  Montjouich, 
which  protects  the  harbor.  The  upper  and  lower  towns, 
with  the  new  suburb  of  Barcclonetta,  chiefly  peopled  by 
mariners  and  soldiers,  contain  120,032  inhabitants.  The 
manufactures  are  cloths,  gold  and  silver  lace,  silks,  cot¬ 
tons,  linens.  The  firearms  made  here  are  in  good  repute, 
and,  with  steel  and  brass  works,  form  a  considerable  arti¬ 
cle  of  export.  The  imports  are  chiefly  French  and  Ital¬ 
ian  manufactures,  corn,  rice,  wax,  steel,  hemp,  and  flax. 
The  harbor  is  spacious,  but  difficult  of  entrance.  It  is 
defended  by  a  large  mole,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  battery 
and  lighthouse.  There  are  nine  parish  churches,  thirty- 
four  monasteries,  six  hospitals,  and  a  theatre.  The  See  is 
suffragan  to  the  archbishopric  of  Tarragona  ;  and  the  king 
of  Spain,  as  Count  of  Barcelona,  is  first  canon  of  the 
chapter.  The  academies  and  institutions  are  honorable  to 
the  public  spirit  of  the  Catalans,  who  are  a  distinct  race 
of  Spaniard.  In  the  arsenal  the  principal  object  is  the 
cannon  foundry.  The  streets,  though  narrow,  are  clean 
and  well  paved  and  the  houses  high.  The  environs  are 
rendered  agreeable  by  more  than  two  hundred  elegant 
gardens,  and  the  walks  round  the  ramparts,  and  La  Kam- 
bla,  are  delightfully  situated  and  always  crowded. 

Barcelona  lias  a  royal  junta  of  government,  and  is  the 
seat  of  the  provincial  authorities.  A  Junta  de  Cummer  no 


■ 


21 


supports  the  public  professorships  of  navigation,  architec¬ 
ture,  painting,  sculpture,  perspective  landscape,  and  orna¬ 
mental  flower  drawing,  engraving,  chemistry,  experimental 
philosophy,  agriculture,  and  botany;  short-hand  writing, 
commerce  and  accounts,  mechanics,  the  English,  French, 
and  Italian  languages.  It  has  a  large  cabinet  of  coins, 
and  awards  pensions  and  rewards  for  superior  attainments 
and  useful  inventions.  It  also  maintains  some  of  its  stu¬ 
dents  in  foreign  parts,  and  has  expended  large  sums  for 
public  works  in  the  province.  Five  hundred  boys  at  one 
time,  most  of  them  intended  for  trades,  attend  the  academy 
of  fine  arts,  provided  with  materials,  models,  and  living 
subjects,  at  the  public  expense.  It  has  also  four  public 
libraries,  an  ecclesiastical  seminary,  eight  colleges,  a  col¬ 
lege  of  surgeons,  and  professorship  of  practical  medicine  ; 
a  college  of  pharmacy,  academy  of  arts  and  sciences,  and  of 
belles  lettres,  &c.,  a  school  for  deaf  and  dumb,  house  of  in¬ 
dustry,  numerous  hospitals,  a  foundling  institution,  and  sev¬ 
eral  other  charities.  The  population  has  not  an  exclusively 
Spanish  appearance.  Spanish  hats  are  scarcely  to  be  seen, 
and  the  charming  mantilla  is  not  indispensable.  The  fea¬ 
tures  of  the  females  are  more  regular,  their  forms  slighter, 
their  complexions  clearer,  and  their  hair  less  coarse  than 
those  of  the  Andalusian  ladies  ;  but  their  eyes  have  less 
expression.  The  dress  of  the  peasantry  is  peculiar,  their 
red  caps  hanging  a  foot  down  their  backs :  crimson  girdles 
and  gaudy  colored  plaids,  give  them  a  highly  grotesque 
appearance. 

CIULF  OF  LYONS. 

On  the  eastern  coast  of  France,  between  hit.  42°  20'  and 
43°  35'.  The  principal  cities  and  ports  on  this  gulf,  are 
Toulon  and  Marseilles.  It  is  now  called  by  French  wri¬ 
ters,  Golfe  cle  Lion  —  from  the  agitation  of  its  waters,  and 
the  severity  of  its  storms. 

MARSEILLES, 

A  large  commercial  city  and  seaport  of  France,  and  the 
capital  of  the  Department  of  Bouches-de-lilione,  stands  on 


I 


22 


the  cast  side  of  a  bay  of  the  Gulf  of  Lyons,  thirty  miles 
west  north-west  of  Toulon.  It  has  a  population  of  120,- 
455,  and  occupies  the  centre  of  a  basin  six  or  seven  miles 
broad,  bounded  by  forty  precipitous  hills.  The  space 
from  the  city  to  the  hills  is  adorned  with  villas  and  ham- 
lets,  for  every  merchant  or  respectable  shop-keeper  has 
his  maison  de  campagne.  These  are  showy,  sometimes 
large  and  splendid,  and  are  called  Bastides,  and  their  num¬ 
ber  is  not  less  than  five  thousand.  The  country  around 
is,  however,  arid,  and  the  wind  called  the  Mistral  is 
blighting  and  noxious.  The  city  is  built  round  its  port, 
and  divided  into  two  parts.  The  old  town,  occupying  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Greek  city,  on  rising  ground,  on  the 
north  side  of  the  harbor,  is  confined,  ill  built,  with  nar¬ 
row,  dark  streets.  The  new  town,  constructed  in  modern 
style,  with  regular  streets,  handsome  squares  and  houses, 
stands  on  the  south  and  east  sides  of  the  port,  being  sepa¬ 
rated  from  the  old  town  by  a  magnificent  street,  which 
extends  in  a  right  line  from  the  Porte  d’  Aix  to  the  Porte 
de  Pome,  traversing  from  north  to  south  the  entire  length 
of  the  city.  The  middle  part  of  this  street,  called  the 
Cours,  is  sheltered  by  trees,  the  houses  on  cither  side  are 
good,  it  has  handsome  fountains,  and  is  one  of  the  chief 
places  of  public  resort.  Marseilles  has  been  fortified  at 
different  periods,  but  its  walls  were  destroyed  in  1800, 
and  their  place  is  occupied  by  boulevards  planted  with 
trees,  beyond  which  the  city  is  rapidly  extending.  It  is 
defended  by  the  fort  of  Notre  Dame  de  la  Garde,  on  a 
steep  eminence  to  the  south ;  but  it  is  more  remarkable 
for  the  beauty  of  its  situation  than  for  strength.  The 
harbor  is  protected  by  a  fort  on  either  side  its  entrance, 
by -the  Chateau  d’lf,  on  the  island  of  that  name,  and  by 
works  on  the  islands  nearly  opposite  its  mouth. 

The  cathedral  occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  of 
Diana  ;  it  is  extensive,  but  heavy-looking.  Its  interior  is 
a  mixture  of  orders,  and  its  ornaments,  mostly  of  the  11th 
and  12th  centuries,  are  in  bad  taste.  The  church  of  St. 
Madeline,  formerly  des  Chartreux,  in  the  suburbs,  an  edi¬ 
fice  constructed  in  the  17th  century,  is  far  superior  to  the 
others.  It  has  a  handsome  facade,  and  two  campaniles, 


4  • 


■ 


■ 


23 


remarkable  for  their  light  appearance.  There  arc  about 
20  Roman  Catholic  churches,  several  chapels,  2  Greek 
churches,  a  Protestant  church,  and  a  synagogue.  The 
town-hall  is  a  heavy  edifice,  composed  of  two  piles  of 
buildings,  connected  by  a  light  and  elegant  arch  on  the 
first  story.  Its  ground  floor  is  the  exchange.  The  Hotel 
Dieu,  one  of  the  first  established  hospitals  in  France,  was 
founded  in  1188,  and  is  capable  of  accommodating  750 
patients.  The  Hospital  de  la  Charite,  founded  in  1640, 
an  asylum  for  aged  persons,  and  for  orphans,  foundlings, 
See.,  has  usually  from  800  to  850  inmates.  The  Laza¬ 
retto,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  perfect  in  Europe,  is 
surrounded  by  a  triple  wall.  Ships  may  clear  from  it 
while  in  quarantine.  Marseilles  has  a  lying-in  hospital, 
a  bureau  de  bienfaisanee,  asylums  for  poor  children,  a 
inont-de-piete,  and  savings  bank.  AVhat  was  formerly  a 
Bernardine  convent,  accommodates  the  Koval  College,  300 
or  400  students;  the  .Royal  Society  of  Science,  Literature, 
and  Art ;  the  public  library  of  50,000  printed  volumes, 
and  1.300  MSS.,  with  cabinets  of  medals,  antiquities,  &c., 
and  a  gallery  of  paintings,  comprising  works  by  Carracci, 
Salvator  Rosa,  Rubens,  Vandyke,  Jordsens,  and  other 
artists  of  the  Italian  and  Flemish  schools.  The  observa¬ 
tory  ,  on  the  highest  point  of  the  old  town,  has  apartments 
for  schools  of  navigation,  geometry,  &c.  The  Grand 
theatre,  after  the  plan  of  the  Odeon  in  Paris,  is  spacious 
and  handsome,  and  has  six  tiers  of  boxes.  The  other 
chief  public  buildings  are  the  hall  of  justice,  new  prison, 
custom  house,  arsenal,  barracks,  mint,  bishop's  palace, 
public  halls,  fish  market,  Ccc.  Marseilles  has  a  botanic 
garden,  and  excellent  public  baths.  It  is  well  supplied 
with  water  from  fountains  and  public  wells,  but  it  is  not 
introduced  into  the  houses.  At  the  extremity  of  the  Rue 
d'Aix  is  an  unfinished  triumphal  arch,  of  the  Corinthian 
order,  originally  erected  in  honor  of  the  Due  d’Angou- 
leme,  after  his  invasion  of  Spain  in  1823;  and  now  in¬ 
tended  to  commemorate  the  revolution  of  1830,  one  of 
the  effects  of  which  was  to  expel  him  from  the  kingdom. 
Marseilles  has  few  remains  of  antiquity,  a  fountain  with 
an  inscription  in  Greek,  an  obelisk,  and  the  remains  of  an 
aqueduct,  &c. 


24 


41)0  port  to  which  Marseilles  is  indebted  for  her  pros¬ 
perity,  is  a  fine  basin,  stretching  from  west  to  east,  about 
1,000  yards,  into  the  very  centre  of  the  city,  and  extremely 
well  fitted  for  moderate-sized  merchantmen,  of  which  it 
will  accommodate  from  1,000  to  1.200.  The  ships  come 
close  to  the  quays,  by  which  it  is  surrounded  on  all  sides, 
except  at  its  cm  trance. 

Marseilles  is  the  grand  emporium  of  the  south  of 
1  ranee,  and  nine-tenths  of  her  commerce  with  the1  coun¬ 
tries  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  engrosses  almost  the 
whole  trade1  between  France  and  Algiers.  She  is  also  the 
principal  station  for  the1  intercourse,  by  steamers,  with 
Malta,  Alexandria,  and  Constantinople.  Beside  the  gov¬ 
ernment  steam  packets,  she  had.  in  IS39,  a  large  number 
of  fine  steam  packets  belonging  to  private  companies. 

Marseilles  v  as  founded  by  a  colony  from  Plioeea,  in 
Ionia,  about  600  years  ]>.  C.  The  Massilians,  as  flu  y 
were  then  called,  distinguished  themselves  by  their  skill 
as  seamen,  their  commerce,  the  wisdom  of  their  political 
institutions,  and  their  civilization.  The\  early  became  al- 
lies  of  Home  ;  but  having  espoused  the  party  of  Pompey, 
their  city  was  taken  bv  (fesar.  Though  Marseilles  lost 
her  liberty,  she1  preserved  her  commerce  and  superior 
civilization  under  the  Romans  ;  and  was  highly  distin¬ 
guished  as  a  school  of  belles  lettrcs  and  philosophy.  She 
is  spoken  of  by  Cicero  in  the  highest  terms  of  eulogy. 
After  the  fall  of  the  Pom  an  empire,  she  underwent  many 
vicissitudes.  In  tin1  tenth  century  she  was  sacked  by  the 
Saracens.  She  was  finally  united  to  I' ranee  in  14S2. 
During  the  middle  ages  she  rivalled  Genoa  in  her  trade 
with  the  Levant.  Fn  1720  the  plague  destroyed  from 
40,000  to  b 0,000  of  the  inhabitants.  She  also  suffered 
from  the  revolutionary  phrenzy,  and  the  anti-commercial 
policy  of  Xapoleou;  but  it  is  now  more  populous  and 
flourishing  than  ever.  Marseilles  has  given  birth  to  many 
distinguished  individuals,  among  whom  may  he  specified 
Pytln  'tis,  one  of  Ihc  most  illustrious  navigators  and  astron- 

V 

omers  of  antiquity,  who  flourished  in  the  fourth  century 
B.  (  ..  and  Pctronius  Arbiter.  Dumarsais.  th<  Gramma¬ 
rian,  and  Pevssonnel,  the  author  uf  a  treatise  on  the  com- 


25 


moire  of  the  Black  sea.  and  of  other  works  on  the  Levant, 
and  Puget,  celebrated  as  a  sculptor,  painter  and  architect. 

'Hie  famous  revolutionary  song  and  air,  calk'd  the  Mar¬ 
seillaise,  did  not  originate  in  Marseilles,  as  might  he  in¬ 
ferred  from  the  name;  this  was  derived  from  the  tune 
having  been  played  by  a  body  of  troops  from  Marseilles,, 
on  their  entry  into  Paris,  in  1791. 

TOULON, 

A  celebrated  seaport  of  France,  and  since  the  conquest 
of  Algiers,  the  first  naval  port  in  the  kingdom,  is  in  the 
department  of  the  Var,  at  the  bottom  of  one  of  the  finest 
harbors  of  the  Mediterranean,  32  miles  E.  S.  E.  of  Mar¬ 
seilles,  and  has  at  least  45,000  inhabitants,  including  the 
garrison,  and  forecats  in  the  bagne.  The  town,  of  an 
oval  shape,  rises  gracefully  and  majestically  towards  the 
North,  extending  her  ramparts  to  the  foot  of  a  chain  of 
high  mountains  stretching  from  the  east  to  the  west. 
The  position  would  bo  more  picturesque  and  beautiful, 
were  there  more  verdure ;  but  the  rocks  and  mountains 
are  arid,  destitute  of  umbrage  of  any  kind.  The  town  is 
surrounded  by  a  double  rampart,  and  a  large,  deep  ditch, 
defended  on  the  east,  west,  and  north,  by  hills  covered 
with  redoubts.  Among  the  forts,  that  of  La  Malgue,  on 
a  peninsula  to  the  south  east,  is  the  most  remarkable,  not 
only  for  extent,  but  solidity  of  construction.  Latterly, 
works  have  been  in  progress  for  uniting  the  town  to  the 
fortress,  and  a  solid  rampart  with  fosses  constructed. 
Toulon  is  divided  into  the  old  and  new  town;  both  are 
well  built,  but  the  streets  of  the  former  are  narrow  and 
crowded,  and  all  the  squares,  except  one,  small  and  irreg¬ 
ular.  The  new  quarter,  in  which  are  most  of  the  naval 
establishments,  is  superior  in  point  of  appearance.  The 
principal  street,  the  Hue  De  Lafayette,  which  intersects 
the  town,  and  is  partially  planted  with  trees,  is  the  seat 
of  the  principal  market,  and  a  scene  of  great  and  amus¬ 
ing  bustle  and  activity.  It  terminates  near  the  port,  in 
the  Place  d’Arms.  a  handsome  square,  planted  with  trees, 
one  side  of  which  is  formed  by  the  admiralty-house. 


3 


, 


26 


The  town  hall,  facing  the  commercial  port,  with  two  co¬ 
lossal  statues  in  front,  by  Puget,  regarded  as  chef 
d’  oeuvres;  the  old  cathedral,  three  other  churches,  the 
court-house,  military  arsenal,  occupying  an  ancient  con¬ 
vent,  naval,  military,  civil,  and  foundling  hospitals,  and  a 
handsome  communal  college,  are  the  other  chief  public 
buildings.  Toulon  is  supplied  with  water  by  springs 
from  the  mountains ;  and  several  of  its  numerous  public 
fountains  are  ornamented  with  statues.  The  suburbs  are 
not  only  increasing,  but,  from  the  augmentation  of  the 
population,  and  importance  of  the  place,  it  has  been  found 
necessary  to  add  stories  to  the  older  houses.  Since  1830, 
two  new  quarters  have  sprung  up  without  the  walls;  one 
on  the  road  north-eastward  to  Yaletti,  and  the  other  on 
the  road  westward  to  Ollioulles.  Owing  to  its  situation 
at  the  foot  of  high  bare  hills,  that  intercept  the  winds  from 
the  north,  and  reflect  the  sun's  rays,  the  climate  in  sum¬ 
mer  is  extremely  hot. 

Toulon  is  the  Brest  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  Ply¬ 
mouth  of  France.  Both  the  old  and  new  harbors  are 
artificial.  The  latter,  formed  by  hollow  and  bomb-proof 
jetties,  running  off  from  the  east  and  wrest  sides  of  the 
town,  is  sufficient!)  (extensive  to  accommodate  thirty  sail 
of  the  line,  as  many  frigates,  and  an  equal  proportion  of 
small  craft.  The  entrance  is  shut  by  a  boom,  and  it  is 
never  so  much  ruffled  by  the  w  ind,  as  to  occasion  damage. 
The  outer  sides  of  the  jetties  present  two  large  batteries, 
even  w  ith  the  water’s  edge.  The  entrance  to  the  inner 
road,  on  which  the  harbor  opens,  is  between  the  Grosso 
tow  er  on  one  side,  and  fort  Fguilette  on  the  other,  about 
620  fathoms  apart.  The  outer,  or  great  roadstead,  to  the 
east  of  the  latter,  has  deeper  water  and  better  anchorage 
than  the  inner,  but  is  open  to  east  winds,  which  some¬ 
times  throw  in  a  heavy  sea. 

The  arsenal,  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe,  occupies  a 
surface  of  eighty-seven  acres,  has  dry  docks,  and  every 
accommodation  for  the  construction,  repair,  and  outfit  of 
ships.  In  general,  from  3,000  to  4.000  free  work  mm,  re 
employed  in  its  walls;  but  in  1841,  when  unusual  activ- 


27 


ity  prevailed,  there  were  between  5,000  and  6,000  labor¬ 
ers,  exclusive  of  6.500  criminals. 

The  rope  house,  constructed  by  the  famous  Vauban,  is 
1,120  feet  in  length,  and  64  in  breadth.  The  docks,  slips, 
sheds,  mast-house,  sail  factory,  magazines,  &c.,  are  on  a 
grand  scale.  A  new  arsenal,  meant  as  an  appendage  to 
the  old,  has  been  recently  laid  out.  The  depot  of  oak 
timber  is  the  largest  in  France.  The  bagne,  is  on  board 
some  hulks,  and  is  occupied  by  criminals  condemned  to 
hard  labor  for  ten  years  and  under. 

The  mercantile  port,  bordered  by  a  line  quay,  is  shut 
off  from  the  harbor  for  men  of  war,  by  a  line  of  dismasted 
vessels.  The  imports  consist  chiefly  of  corn,  flour,  salt 
provisions,  timber,  &c. ;  and  the  exports,  of  oil,  capers, 
figs,  raisins,  almonds,  oranges,  and  other  fruits,  with 
cloth,  hosiery,  soap,  &c.  The  trade,  hitherto  inconsid¬ 
erable,  has  materially  increased  since  the  conquest  of 
Algiers,  and  will  probably  continue  to  increase.  In  1841, 
eight  steamers  were  continually  plying  between  Toulon 
and  Africa,  Corsica,  Italy,  and  the  east,  and  smaller  ves¬ 
sels  to  La  Seyne.  'Toulon  is  the  capital  of  an  arrondiso 
ment  and  two  cantons,  and  the  residence  of  numerous 
government  officers  and  foreign  consuls ;  it  has  tribunals 
of  primary  jurisdiction  and  commerce,  a  lord  of  customs, 
a  college,  schools  of  hydrography,  marine  artillery,  geome¬ 
try  and  mathematics,  a  society  of  arts,  naval  museum, 
public  library,  government,  pawn  and  savings’  banks,  a 
theatre,  public  baths,  6cc. 

'Toulon  existed  in  the  days  of  the  Romans.  In  more 
modern  times,  it  was  occasionally  attacked  by  African 
corsairs.  To  defend  it  from  them,  Louis  XII.  commenced 
the  erection  of  the  Crosse  tower,  at  the  entrance  of  the 
inner  road,  w  hich  was  finished  by  Francis  I.  Henry  IV. 
begun  the  construction  of  the  old  port,  now  appropriated 
to  merchant  vessels,  in  1594.  But  it  is  indebted  for  its 
importance  as  a  great  naval  and  military  position,  to 
Louis  XIV.,  who  expended  vast  sums  on  its  fortifications 
and  harbor.  Having,  in  1793,  been  delivered  up  by  the 
royalists  to  the  English  and  Spaniards,  it  was  retaken  by 
the  republicans,  after  a  siege,  in  which  Napoleon  gave 


28 


the  first  decided  proofs  of  his  extraordinary  military 
talents.  On  evacuating  the  town,  the  allies  set  fire  to 
the  magazines,  and  to  the  ships  they  were  unable  to  carry 
off ;  the  fortifications  have  since  been  thoroughly  repaired, 
and  several  new  works  constructed,  so  that  it  is  stronger 
now  than  ever,  and  if  properly  garrisoned,  would  be  all 
but  impregnable. 


*  THIRD  DIVISION. 


NICE. 

Nice  is  a  seaport  and  city  of  the  Sardinian  dominion- 
in  Italy,  and  the  capital  of  the  province  of  its  own  name. 
The  population,  exclusive  of  the  garrison,  is  33,811.  It 
is  beautifully  situated,  in  a  small  plain  at  the  foot  of  the 
maritime  Alps,  by  which  it  is  protected  from  the  N.  and 
E.  winds ;  while  the  cool  sea-breeze,  prevailing  with  a 
regularity  almost  equal  to  that  of  a  tropical  climate, 
moderates  the  summer  heat.  It  is  encircled  by  bastioned 
walks,  and  has  on  the  E.  the  steep,  rocky  hill  of  Monte 
Albano,  surmounted  by  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle.  The 
view  from  this  hill  is  very  fine,  and  at  sunrise  and  sunset 
the  island  of  Corsica  is  sometimes  clearly  distinguished, 
though  some  70  or  80  miles  distant.  The  port,  small 
and  protected  by  a  pier,  admits  vessels  of  300  tons,  and  is 
visited  bv  steamers  from  Marseilles  to  Genoa.  Nice  is 
divided  into  two  parts  by  the  river  Tnglione,  here  crossed 
by  a  stone  bridge.  The  old  town  has  narrow  and  crooked 
streets,  kept  very  clean.  The  new  town,  to  the  west  of 
the  river,  is  well  laid  out  and  handsome:  it  lias  a  square 
surrounded  by  ojien  arcades,  and  some  of  the  houses  near 
the  sea  and  in  the  vicinity,  are  very  superior.  The  cathe¬ 
dral,  several  convents,  three  hospitals,  the  governor's  res¬ 
idence,  college,  public  library,  theatre,  and  a  fine  arch 
erected  in  honor  of  Victor  Amadeus  111.,  are  the  princi¬ 
pal  public  buildings.  It  has  several  bathing  establish¬ 
ments,  and  some  good  hotels;  and  the  rents  of  houses  and 


^  ^  Hj 


2D 


apartments  are  lower  than  in  any  othtr  place  of  gen¬ 
eral  resort  oil  the  continent.  It  has  manufactures  of  silk 
twist,  snuff,  soap,  essences,  perfumery,  paper,  fishery  of 
anchovies,  and  a  considerable  trade  in  the  export  of  oil, 
wine,  oranges,  hemp,  Nc.,  and  in  the  importation  of 
coni  from  the  Black  Sea,  salt  fish,  manufactured  goods, 
and  colonial  produce.  It  is  a  bishop’s  See,  the  seat  of  a 
royal  council,  and  of  the  head  court  of  justice  for  its  divi¬ 
sion.  Nice,  in  common  with  Montpelier,  enjoys  the 
reputation  of  having  a  peculiarly  genial  climate,  and  is 
resorted  to  by  numerous  invalids,  especially  from  Eng¬ 
land,  during  November,  December,  and  January.  At 
Christmas  time,  there  are  a  soft  and  balmy  air,  oranges 
growing  in  every  garden,  lodgings  without  a  chimney, 
and  beds  with  mosquito  curtains.  But  in  February,  the 
Vent  de  Bise  begins  to  blow,  and  is  very  trying  to  persons 
of  delicate  constitutions.  A  noble  road,  constructed  at 
a  vast  expense,  leads  over  the  Maritime  Alps,  from  Nice 
to  Turin.  Another,  begun  by  Napoleon,  but  not  com¬ 
pleted  till  1 H *2 7 ,  leads  along  the  sea  coast,  from  Nice  to 
Genoa,  and  a  third  from  Lyons  to  Nice. 

Nice  was  founded  by  colonists  from  Marseilles.  Under 
the  Komans  it  was  originally  the  seat  of  a  naval  arsenal ; 
but  under  Augustus,  the  latter  was  transferred  to  Frejus. 
Under  the  French,  it  was  the  capital  of  the  department 
Alpes  Maritime. s\  Among  the  celebrated  individuals  to 
whom  it  has  given  birth,  are  the  painter,  Vanloo ;  the 
astronomer,  Cassini ;  and  Marshal  Massena,  one  of  Napo¬ 
leon’s  ablest  generals. 


GENOA. 

This  superb  maritime  city  of  the  N.  of  Italy  is  of  great 
antiquity,  and  was  once  the  capital  of  an  independent  re¬ 
public,  as  it  is  now  of  a  province  of  the  kingdom  of  Sar¬ 
dinia.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  the  same 
name,  75  miles  S.  E.  of  Turin,  and  90  miles  N.  NV.  of 
Leghorn.  Including  the  garrison,  the  merchant  seamen, 
and  those  of  the  royal  navy,  it  has  a  population  of  115,- 
257.  Its  port  is  semi-circular,  the  chord  being  about  a 

3* 


. 


30 


mile  in  length.  Two  gigantic  moles,  Molo  Vechio,  and 
Molo  Nuovo,  projecting  into  the  sea  from  either  angle,  en¬ 
close  and  protect  the  harbor.  The  land  rises  amphitheatre- 
wise  from  the  water’s  edge  to  the  height  of  500  or  600  feet; 
so  that  the  aspect  of  the  city  from  the  sea  is  grand  and 
imposing.  The  houses  form  streets  at  the  lower  part  of 
the  acclivity,  while  the  upper  is  thickly  studded  with  de¬ 
tached  villas.  Behind  all,  the  Apennines  tower  at  the 
distance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles;  their  summits,  dining 
part  of  the  year,  being  covered  with  snow.  ( renoa  has  a 
double  line  of  fortifications :  the  inner  one  encloses  the 
city  itself,  on  the  X.  and  E.  sides  of  the  port ;  the  outer 
walls  extend  from  either  angle  of  the  port  back  to  the  sum¬ 
mit  of  the  hills,  on  the  declivity  of  which  the  city  stands, 
and  are  eight  or  ten  miles  in  length.  The  old  or  E.  por¬ 
tion  of  the  city  consists  of  a  labyrinth  of  narrow  and 

V  V 

crooked  streets,  the  breadth  being  generally  no  more  than 
from  six  to  twelve  feet.  They  run  between  a  succession 
of  lofty  houses,  fiye,  six,  and  even  seven  stories  high,  each 
story  being  from  12  to  15  feet  deep;  the  cornices  under 
the  roof  of  which  sometimes  project  so  far  as  to  meet,  and 
thereby  exclude  all  daylight.  In  these  streets  you  meet 
vast  numbers  of  mules  and  some  asses,  carrying  all  sorts 
of  articles  on  their  backs;  for  wheeled  carriages  are  used 
only  in  the  broad  streets,  which*  are  rare  except  in  the 
suburbs.  The  streets  are  paved  with  broad  flags  of  lava, 
laid  in  mortar,  and  having  the  smoothness  and  durability 
of  good  masonry.  In  the  middle  of  this  pavement  is  a 
pathway  laid  with  bricks,  set  on  edge,  about  two  or 
three  feet  broad,  and  a  little  higher  than  the  lava,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  mules ;  the  lava  being  too  smooth 
to  afford  their  feet  sufficient  hold. 

Narrow  and  steep  as  they  are,  the  streets  are  very  clean. 

cool,  and  quiet.  The  newer  part  of  the  city  stretches 

along  the  N.  side  of  the  port,  is  more  regularly  laid  out. 

and  contains  some  broad  and  very  handsome  streets ;  in 

* 

particular,  that  running  from  the  Piazza  delle  fontane  to 
the  Piazza  delF  Aquaverde ,  near  the  AY.  gate,  and  includ¬ 
ing  the  Strada  Nova,  and  Novissima ,  the  Piazza  did  Vas- 
tato ,  and  the  Strada  BaJhi. 


Tho  last,  of  these  is  entirely  formed  of  palaces  most 
costly  and  magnificent.  Each  is  built  round  a  court,  and 
tin-  best  apartments  are  on  the  third  floor,  for  the  benefit 
of  light  and  air.  The  fiat  roofs  arc  adorned  with  shrubs 
and  trees,  as  myrtle,  pomegranate,  orange,  lemon,  olean¬ 
ders,  &c\,  25  feet  high,  growing  not  in  boxes  only,  but  in 
open  ground  several  feet  deep,  brought  hither  and  sup¬ 
ported  on  arches.  Fountains  play  among  these  artificial 
groves,  and  keep  up  their  verdure  and  shade  during  the 
heat  of  summer.  In  Italy.  Genoa  has  acquired  and  de¬ 
serves  the  title  of  “  J,a  Superha."  It  exhibits  not  a  few 
remains  of  ancient  splendor,  and  much  evidence  of  actual 
wealth  and  comfort.  Its  architecture  is  grand  in  style 
and  admirable  in  material.  Its  palaces  are  numerous,  and 
many  of  their  princely  gates  40  feet  high,  with  marble 
columns,  courts  paved  with  vari-colored  marbles  in  mo¬ 
saic.  broad  staircases  all  of  marble,  rooms  80  feet  high, 
with  arched  ceilings,  adorned  with  gilded  columns,  large 
mirrors,  superb  crystal  lustres,  mosaic  floors,  the  roofs 
panelled,  and  the  panels  filled  with  finely  executed  fres¬ 
coes,  or  paintings  in  oil,  and  divided  by  sculptured  figures. 
Behind  are  orangeries.  There  are  all  hut  multitudes  of 
these  palaces  The  common  houses  are  of  stone  plastered 
with  stucco,  the  finer  of  marble.  Of  its  palaces,  that  of 
Doria,  built  by  and  still  belonging  to  the  illustrious  family 
of  that  name,  is  the  largest  and  most  stately.  It  opens 
into  large  gardens,  which  extend  along  the  shore;  has  a 
noble  colonnade  supporting  a  terrace  facing  the  gardens, 
the  whole  in  white  marble:  and  its  interior  is  very  richly 
ornamented.  Tho  emperors  Charles  V.  and  Napoleon, 
both  made  it  their  residence  during  their  stay  in  Genoa. 
Another  Palazzo  Doria  is  now  a  residence  of  the  king  of 
Sardinia.  The  old  mole,  extending  260  fathoms,  has  a 
batten  near  its  middle.  The  new  mole,  on  the  opposite 
side,  projects  210  fathoms;  the  distance  between  them 
forms  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  and  is  350  fathoms. 
Mon-of-war  and  the  largest  of  merchantmen  may  anchor 
inside  the  new  mole.  There  are  not  a  great  many  public 
fountains,  but  a  plentiful  supply  of  water  for  the  inhabit¬ 
ants  is  brought  by  an  aqueduct  from  the  river  Bisaguo, 


- 


32 


immediately  E.  of  the  outer  walls.  The  atmosphere  is 
pure,  the  climate  of  the  city  and  neighborhood  healthy, 
and  particularly  favorable  for  rearing  silk  worms. 

Genoa  is  the  grand  port  of  entry  of  a  wide  extent  of 
country,  and  her  commerce  is  rapidly  augmenting.  Her 
exports  are  olive  oil,  fruits,  cheese,  steel,  argol,  silks, 
damasks,  and  famous  velvets,  paper,  soap,  marble,  alabas¬ 
ter,  coral,  &c.  ;  her  imports,  cotton  and  woollen  stuffs, 
corn,  sugar,  spices,  coffee,  cochineal,  indigo,  hides,  iron, 
naval  stores,  &c.  Genoa  is  the  residence  of  a  general 
commandant  and  archbishop,  and  the  seat  of  the  Supreme 
Court  of  the  province,  and  has  an  admiralty  council,  a 
tribunal  and  chamber  of  commerce,  royal  college,  naval 
school,  deaf  and  dumb  establishment,  public  library  of 
50,000  volumes,  1,000  MSS.,  several  learned  societies,  and 
various  schools.  Provisions  are  good,  rent  cheap,  the 
beggars  few,  and  the  society  elegant  and  agreeable.  Most 
ladies  wear  the  mantilla,  a  piece  of  thin  white  muslin  or 
gauze,  which  covers  the  head  and  shoulders,  and  comes 
down  to  the  waist.  This  piece  of  costume  is  also  in  com¬ 
mon  use  in  Leghorn. 

SPLENDID  PALACES  AND  CHURCHES  0E  GENOA. 

In  (ienoa  there  are  two  palaces,  originally  belonging  to 
the  Durazzo  family.  That  on  the  titrada  Balbi,  now  a 
royal  mansion,  has  a  front  of  250  feet  in  length  ;  a  court 
rich  in  architectural  embellislrments,  and  a  famous  gallery 
100  feet  long,  ornamented  with  frescoes,  and  containing 
a  curious  collection  of  statues  and  sculptures,  ancient  and 
modem,  numerous  portraits  of  the  Durazzi,  historical 
paintings,  and  others,  by  Carlo  I)olci,  Titian,  Vandyck, 
A.  Durer,  Holbein,  &c.  In  another  apartment,  is  the  chef 
d’ oeuvre  of  Paul  Veronese,  “Mary  Magdalene  at  the 
feet  of  our  Saviour.'’  The  other  Durazzo  palace  is  scarce¬ 
ly  less  rich;  its  gallery  contains  some  fine  works  by 
P.  Veronese,  L.  and  A.  Caracci,  Guereino,  Titian,  Porni- 
nichino,  Guido,  Reubens,  &c.  The  ancient  palace  of  tl 
Doges  was  almost  wholly  destroyed  by  tire  in  1 177  ;  bn  !  he 
modem  building  on  its  site  is  a  fine  structure,  and  con- 


tains  the  City  Council  Hall,  125  feet  by  45,  and  66  feet 
high.  The  Berra,  Spinola,  Balbi,  Brignole,  Carega,  Mari, 
and  Pallavicini,  are  among  the  most  remarkable  of  the 
other  palaces.  The  finest  of  the  churches  is  that  of  the 
Annunziata ,  founded  in  the  1 3th  century.  It  contains  some 
good  paintings.  The  cathedral  of  St.  Lorenzo,  built  in 
the  1 1  th  century,  is  of  Gothic  architecture  ;  its  exterior 
is  cased  with  black  and  white  marble,  in  alternate  horizon¬ 
tal  stripes.  The  cathedral  of  St.  Cairo  is  very  ancient; 
that  of  St.  Stepliano  has  a  famous  altar-piece,  -the  joint 
work  of  Raphael  and  Julio  Romano.  The  church  of  San 
Filippo  JVm,  and  the  chapel  of  the  Carmelite  nuns,  are 
both  greatly  admired  for  their  chaste  style.  The  church 
of  Santa  Maria  Carignano,  also  in  the  best  taste,  was 
erected  by  one  of  the  princely  citizens  of  Genoa,  whose 
son,  in  the  16th  century,  united  two  elevated  parts  of  the 
town  by  a  bridge,  the  ponte  di  Carignano.  100  feet  in 
height,  and  which  passes,  with  three  giant  strides,  over 
houses  six  stories  high,  that  do  not  come  up  to  the  spring 
of  the  arches.  There  are  altogether  thirty-two  parish 
churches,  sixty-nine  convents  and  monasteries,  and  three 
large  hospitals  richly  endowed ;  the  principal  of  which, 
the  Abergo  di  Poveri ,  is  a  large  quadrangular  edifice  im¬ 
mediately  north  of  the  inner  city  walls.  In  this  institu¬ 
tion  1,500  or  1,600  orphans  and  old  people  are  pro¬ 
vided  for.  This  building  contains  numerous  busts  and 
statues  of  its  benefactors,  and  a  “Dead  Christ,”  in  alto  re¬ 
lievo,  by  Michael  Angelo;  probably  the  finest  piece  of 
sculpture  in  Genoa.  Among  the  other  public  buildings, 
are  the  exchange,  the  old  bank  of  St.  George,  and  one  of 
the  three  I  heat  res.  Carlo  Felice,  recently  built.  The  op¬ 
era  in  Genoa  is  indifferent.  The  university,  in  the  Stradi 
Palin,  is  a  fine  edifice,  and  has  a  large  library  and  botanic 
garden.  Around  the  port  is  a  rampart,  affording  an  ex¬ 
cellent  promenade.  On  the  north  side  of  the  harbor  is 
the  Darsena ,  a  double  basin,  enclosed  by  piers,  and  des¬ 
tined  for  a  refitting  dock ;  adjoining  it  is  the  arsenal. 


34 


LEGHORN. 


This  city  and  seaport,  the  principal  emporium  of  Italy, 
in  the  grand  Duchy  of  Tuscany,  contains  76,397  inhabi¬ 
tants,  of  whom  about  5,000  are  Greeks  and  Jews,  and 
3,000  other  foreigners.  It  is  of  a  square  form,  and  about 
two  miles  and  a  half  in  circumference,  surrounded  with 
new  walls  entered  by  five  gates.  Clean  and  well  built, 
its  general  air  of  animation,  activity,  and  business,  is  sin¬ 
gularly  opposed  to  the  listless  idleness  of  the  inland  towns 
of  Italy.  Its  streets  are  generally  wide  and  well  paved, 
especially  that  which  runs  m  a  direct  line  from  the  gate 
of  Pisa  to  the  harbor,  enlarging  near  its  centre  into  a  spa¬ 
cious  square.  The  north  part  of  the  city,  called  Venezia 
Nova,  is  intersected  by  canals,  and  comprises  numerous 
wharv  es,  warehouses,  and  other  buildings  adapted  to  com¬ 
merce.  Leghorn  has  an  outer  and  inner  harbor,  and  a 
good  roadstead.  The  outer  harbor  is  protected  by  a  fine 
mole,  built  by  Cosmo  II.,  which  runs  north-north-w  est 
upwards  of  half  a  mile  into  the  sea.  A  light-house,  the 
lantern  of  which  is  170  feet  above  the  sea,  is  on  a  rock  a 
little  south-west  from  the  mole.  The  Lazaretto,  one  of 
the  best  in  Europe,  stands  on  a  small  island  to  the  south, 
about  one  mile  from  the  tower. 

The  public  and  private  buildings  are  well  adapted  to 
their  purposes,  without  being  very  splendid.  The  chief 
public  edifices  are  the  ducal  palace,  the  arsenal,  the  duo 
mo  or  cathedral,  a  Gothic  building  designed  by  Vasari, 
six  other  parish  churches,  two  Greek  churches,  chapels 
belonging  to  the  English  factory  and  the  Dutch  and  Ger¬ 
man  Protestants,  an  Armenian  and  a  Maronite  Arab 
church,  a  synagogue,  the  largest  in  Europe  after  that  of 
Amsterdam,  a  mosque,  three  hospitals,  the  female  charity 
school  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  a  theatre,  and  public 
baths.  Leghorn  has  also  a  citadel,  an  old  castle,  construct¬ 
ed  in  1595  bv  Ferdinand  I.,  two  lazaretts,  besides  that 
mentioned,  two  monti-di-pieta,  a  work-house,  house  of  re¬ 
fuge,  savings’  bank,  a  large  public  school,  established  in 
1746,  and  which  has  about  350  pupils,  schools  of  naviga¬ 
tion  and  artillery,  architecture,  painting,  mutual  n  -aruc- 


35 


tion,  an  academy  of  sciences,  letters,  and  arts,  with  a  li¬ 
brary  of  6,000  volumes,  open  to  the  public.  The  city 
possesses  a  fine  marble  statue  of  the  grand  duke  Ferdinand 
I.,  supported  by  four  kneeling  figures  in  bronze;  it  stands 
on  the  quay  of  the  inner  habor,  and  was  executed  by  John 
of  bologna.  In  the  cemeteries  beyond  the  walls,  are 
also  some  good  specimens  of  sculpture.  The  Campo  In- 
glese,  contains  the  remains  of  Smollett,  and  of  several 
other  distinguished  Englishmen. 

Water  is  brought  by  an  aqueduct  from  Colognole, 
twelve  miles  distant ;  one  of  the  most  remarkable  mon¬ 
uments  is  the  Cisterna  belonging  to  this  aqueduct, 
whence  water  is  distributed  through  the  town. 

Leghorn  has  a  considerable  coral  fishery ;  but  the  great¬ 
er  portion  of  inhabitants  are  engaged  in  manufacture  and 
commerce  ;  it  produces  woollen  caps,  straw  hats,  glass, 
paper,  soap,  starch,  cream  of  tartar,  &c.  ;  and  it  has  nu¬ 
merous  coral  and  alabaster  factories,  rope-walks,  building- 
docks  for  merchant  vessels,  tanneries,  &e. 

It"  exports  are  similar  to  those  from  the  other  Italian 
ports.  It  was  made  a  free  port  by  Cosmo  I.,  about  the 
middle  of  the  16th  century,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  com- 
mercial  cities  of  Italy. 

ISLE  AND  TOWN  OF  ELBA, 

Near  the  coast  of  Tuscany,  about  eight  miles  in  length 
and  two  in  breadth,  known  to  the  Greeks  by  the  name  of 
Aithalia,  and  to  the  Romans  by  that  of  Ilva,  or  Elva,  has 
homi  renowned  for  its  mines  from  a  period  beyond  the 
reach  of  history.  Pliny  gives  it  a  circuit  of  100  miles; 
late  geographers  allow  it  only  60.  The  difference  might 
even  be  accounted  for  by  the  encroachments  of  the  sea, 
and  by  the  tumbling  in  of  rocks,  which  are  in  many 
places  of  a  mouldering  contexture.  Being  extremely 
mountainous,  Elba  affords  but  scanty  room  for  culti¬ 
vation,  and  produces  little  more  than  six  month’s  provi¬ 
sion  of  corn  for  its  inhabitants.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
peopled  from  Yoitena,  in  very  ancient  times  the  capital  of 


36 


Tuscany,  and  perhaps  of  all  Italy.  The  climate  is  much 
milder  than  that  of  the  adjacent  continent.  Elba  contains 
two  grand  ports;  Porto  Ferraio  and  Porto  Longone,  both 
defended  by  fortifications  and  garrisons.  Lon.  10°  26'  E., 
Lat.  42°  53'  N.  Population  13,750. 

The  Etruscans,  Phocians,  Cartliagenians,  and  Homans, 
successively  possessed  Elba ;  in  the  middle  ages  it  was 
subject  to  the  Saracens,  Pisans,  Genoese,  Lucchase,  the 
counts  of  Piombino,  Ossini,  &c.  In  the  16th  century  it 
was  ravaged  by  Barbarossa,  and  soon  afterwards  fell  to 
the  crown  of  Naples.  Under  the  French  empire  it  formed 
part  of  the  kingdom  of  Etrutri ;  but  its  chief  historical 
interest  is  derived  from  its  having  been  the  residence  of 
Napoleon  from  the  3d  of  May,  1814,  to  the  26th  of  Feb., 
1815.  During  this  short  period,  a  road  was  opened  be¬ 
tween  the  two  principal  towns,  trade  revived,  and  a  new 
era  seemed  to  have  opened  for  Elba. 

MOLA  DE  GAETA. 

Mola  de  Gaeta,  41  miles  northwest  of  Naples,  and  72 
miles  southeast  of  Home,  has  a  population  of  14,800,  of 
whom  10,000  reside  in  the  suburbs.  It  is  one  of  the  keys 
of  the  kingdom,  being  strong  in  position,  and  defended  by 
walls  flanked  with  bastions  and  redoubts,  and  a  square 
castle  situated  on  a  rock.  Its  suburbs  are  extensive. 

Gaeta  is  irregularly  built,  its  streets  are  narrow  and 
steep ;  those  in  the  city  are,  however,  greatly  inferior  to 
those  in  the  suburbs.  It  has  a  cathedral,  with  a  fine 
tower,  constructed  by  the  emperor  Frederick  Barbarossa ; 
nine  other  churches,  several  convents,  a  public  seminary, 
hospital,  and  foundling  asylum.  On  the  isthmus  con¬ 
necting  the  citadel  w  ith  the  main  land,  stands  the  Torre 
d ’  Orlando,  originally  the  tomb  of  Plancus ;  and  near  the 
suburb  of  Castellone  is  the  Tower  of  Cicero.  Its  port, 
though  not  the  largest,  is  one  of  the  safest  and  best  in 
Italy.  This  city  is  the  seat  of  a  bishopric,  under  the  im¬ 
mediate  superintendence  of  the  pope.  It  is  the  centre  of 
a  considerable  trade.  Its  neighborhood  is  extrerm  L 


;.n 


beautiful,  and  covered  with  villas  and  country  houses. 
Gacta  is  very  ancient,  Virgil  says  it  derived  its  name 
from  the  nurse  of  vFnoas  buried  in  it. 

It  became  the  residence  of  many  opulent  patricians  of 
Itome,  and  Cicero  was  put  to  death  by  order  of  Antony, 
in  its  immediate  vicinity.  After  the  fall  of  the  western 
empire,  it  had  a  republican  form  of  government,  at  the 
head  of  which,  however,  was  placed  a  duke,  acknowledg¬ 
ing  the  temporal  supremacy  of  the  Pope.  In  1435,  it  was 
taken  by  Alplionso  V.,  of  Arragon  ;  and  since,  then  has 
belonged  to  the  crown  of  Naples.  In  modem  times  it  has 
been  repeated!}  besieged  ;  the  last  siege  of  an}'  great  note 
was  in  1800,  when  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  French. 
It,  however,  held  out  against  the  Austrians  for  some  time, 
both  in  1815  and  1821. 


FOURTH  DIVISION. 


CAPE  M1SEMS. 


This  is  a  bold  promontory,  washed  by  the  waves,  and 
around  whose  base  the  fleet  of  the  lloman  emperors  used 
to  anchor.  Near  bv  an*  the  Elvsian  Fields,  the  fabled 
abode  of  the  blessed. 

ISCHIA. 

This  island  belongs  to  the  king  of  Naples;  is  eight 
miles  south  west  from  the  promontory  of  Misenus;  about 
seven  miles  in  length  and  twenty  in  circumference,  having 
a  population  of  24,000.  Nearly  in  its  centre  is  Mount 
San  Nicolo,  an  extinct,  though  formerly  an  active  volcano, 
the  eruptions  of  which  are  noticed  by  Strabo  and  Pliny, 
and  which  burst  forth  with  great  fury  in  1301.  It  is 
2,513  feet  above  the  sea,  to  which  the  whole  island  falls 
in  a  gentle  slope,  except  on  the  north,  where  its  sides  are 
more  abrupt.  Ischia  owes  its  origin  to  volcanic  agency, 
and  consists  wholly  of  volcanic  matter.  Its  hold  and 


4 


. 


rocky  shores  present  nn  imposing  appearanre  from  the' 
water,  and  the  favorable  impression  it  makes  at  a  distance 
is  not  dispelled  on  landing,  it  being  remarkable  both  for 
fertility  of  soil  and  beauty  of  situation.  Besides  a  great 
(quantity  of  wine,  it  produce's  olives,  a  variety  of  fruit, 
with  wheat,  maize,  pulse,  and  excellent  herbage.  It  is 
well  supplied  with  game,  especially  partridges.  Sulphur 
and  other  useful  mineral  products  are  abundant,  and  there 
are  numerous  lmt  springs  and  natural  vapor  baths,  espe¬ 
cially  at  its  northwest  extremity.  The  inhabitants  are 
parti v  husbandmen,  partly  sailors  and  fishermen.  'The 
manufacture  of  straw  hats,  baskets,  and  earthenware,  is 
carried  on  to  some  extent. 

The  chief  towns  are  Ischia  and  Poria;  the  former  on 
the  cast.,  the  latter  on  the  west  coast.  Ischia,  the  capital, 
with  3,000  inhabitants,  is  a  pretty  town,  and  the  residence 
of  a  bishop.  A  round  rock,  as  black  as  if  just  launched 
out  of  the  bowels  of  a  volcano,  forms  a  kind  of  haven  by 
means  of  a  causeway  communicating  with  the  town;  its 
summit  and  sides  are  covered  with  houses,  ancient  tur¬ 
rets,  and  ruinous  fortifications,  huddled  together,  and 
accessible  only  on  one  side,  by  a  Nteep,  winding  road. 
On  this  rock  is  an  old  fortress,  in  ■which  the  last  princes 
of  the  house  of  An  agon  took  refuge  when  Naples  was 
conquered  by  the  french.  Poria  is  ill  built,  without  a 
harbor.  At  a  remote  period  this  island  was  settled  by 
Esotrians  and  (  halsidians;  and  afterwards  by  Syracusans, 
sent  by  Hero,  who,  how 'ever,  abandoned  it  in  consequence 
of  the  violent  volcanic  eruption,  470  B.  C. 

HALVE. 

Baiae,  a  famous  marine  watering  place  of  the  ancient 
Roman  world,  west  of  Naples,  and  two  and  a  half  miles 
north  of  Cape  Misenus  ;  indebted  for  its  rise  and  celebrity 
to  the  softness  and  serenity  of  its  climate,  the  beauty  of 
its  situation,  the  abundance  ot  h>  hot  springs,  which  gave 
to  the  Romans,  who  were  passionately  fond  of  the  bath, 
the  oppovtunit\  of  !•:  bilging  in  that  luxury  in  even  form 
most  acceptable.  It  came  into  lashion  about  tin*  era  of 


. 


39 


Lucull  us,  who  bad  a  splendid  villa,  either  in  the  town  or 
its  immediate  neighborhood,  as  had  also  Caesar,  Pompey, 
and  Augustus;  and  it  continued  to  increase  in  popularity, 
and  to  be  a  resort  of  the  emperors,  and  of  the  affluent 
voluptuaries  of  Home,  till  the  eruption  of  the  barbarians 
under  Theodoric  the  (doth.  The  town  was  built  origin¬ 
ally  on  the  narrow  slip  of  ground  between  the  hills  and 
tile  sea;  but  as  this  space  was  of  but  very  limited  dimen¬ 
sions,  after  Baiae  became  a  fashionable  resort,  the  found¬ 
ations  of  its  streets  and  palaces  were  projected  into  the 
bay  itself.  This  is  alluded  to  by  Horace,  in  one  of  his 
odes. 

No  sooner,  however,  had  opulence  withdrawn  her  pow¬ 
erful  hand,  than  the  sea  gradually  resumed  its  old  domain; 
moles  and  buttresses  were  tom  asunder,  washed  away,  or 
tumbled  headlong  into  the  deep;  where,  several  feet  be¬ 
low  the  surface,  pavements  of  streets,  foundations  of 
houses,  and  masses  of  walls  may  still  be  described.  Earth¬ 
quakes  and  other  convulsions  of  nature  have  also  largely 
contributed  to  the  destruction  of  Baiae,  of  which  only 
portions  of  the  ruins  now  remain. 

GROTTO  OF  THE  CVMAEN  SIBYL. 

The  most  celebrated  of  the  Sibyls  is  that  of  Cumae,  in 
Italy.  She  demanded  of  Apollo  to  live  as  many  years  as 
she  had  grains  of  sand  in  her  hands,  but  forgot  to  ask  for 
health,  vigor,  and  bloom,  which  she  then  possessed.  He 
granted  her  request ;  she  afterwards  faded  and  became 
decrepit  and  lost  her  cheerfulness.  She  was  reported  to 
be  700  years  old  when  .Eneas  came  to  Italy,  and  was  ex¬ 
pected  to  live  three  centuries  more!  She  wrote  her  pro¬ 
phecies  on  leaves,  left  at  the  entrance  of  her  cave,  and  it 
was  necessary  to  consult  them  before  dispersed  by  the 
wind,  else  they  became  incomprehensible. 

LAKE  AVERNUS, 

Is  about  10  miles  west  of  Naples,  near  the  sea,  occu¬ 
pying  what  there  is  good  reason  to  think  is  the  crater  of 
an  extinct  volcano,  and  is  surrounded  by  high  hills, 


40 


except  where  there  is  an  outlet,  In  which  it  formerly 
communicated  with  the  Luerine  lake.  It  is  from  one  and 
a  half  to  one  and  three-fourths  miles  in  circumference; 
the  water  clear,  very  deep,  and  well  supplied  with  tench. 
During  the  earl\  period  of  Roman  history,  the  hills 
around  this  lake  were  thickly  covered  with  dense  for¬ 
ests,  which  gave  it  a  gloom v  appearance,  and,  by  con¬ 
fining  the  mephitic  vapors  that  rose  from  the  volcanic 
soil,  rendered  the  air  extremely  unhealthy.  In  conse¬ 
quence,  the  place  was  regarded  with  superstitious  awe. 
The  poet  represented  A  vein  us  as  sacred  to  the  infernal 
gods,  and  as  being,  in  fact,  the  entrance  by  which  Ulys¬ 
ses  and  .linens  descended  to  the  lower  regions. 

It  was  said  that  no  bird  could  fly  over  the  lake  with¬ 
out  being  destroyed  by  its  poisonous  exhalations,  and 
lienee  its  name,  A  vermis.  This  is  noticed  by  Virgil,  in 
well  known  lines. 

But  during  the  reign  of  Augustus,  Agrippa  dispelled 
the  obscurity  and  sanctity  that  had  so  long  encircled 
A  vermis.  He  cut  down  its  groves;  and  having  joined 
it  to  the  Luerine  hay.  he  brought  ships  into  its  solitudes, 
and  used  it  a>  a  harbor  in  which  to  exercise  galleys.  The 
Luerine  lake,  or  rather  hay,  w  as  almost  entirely  tilled  up 
by  the  subterraneous  eruption  of  Monte  Xuovo,  in  153*. 
(Du  one  side  of  the  lake  A v emus  are  the  remains  of  a 
large  octagon  temple,  probably  appropriated  to  the  wor¬ 
ship  of  Hecate;  and  opposite  the  temple,  on  the  other 
side  the  lake,  is  the  opening  of  the  subterranean  conduit 
usually  called  the  grotto  of  the  Sibyl,  hut  which  was,  in 
fact,  a  tunnel  leading  from  the  lake  to  the  sea.  The  hills 
around  the  lake  are  now  covered  with  gardens  and  vine¬ 
yards,  and  are  still  at  certain  seasons  unhealthy. 

MONTE  N10V0. 

One  is  astonished  that  so  great  a  pile  should  have  beer! 
thrown  up  in  the  short  space  of  a  night  and  a  day, 
thirty-six  hours.  Tt  is  that  of  a  regular  and  picturesq 
cone;  and  from  its  height  it  descr\o>,  as  it  receives, 
name  of  mountain.  The  epithet  Xuovo  is  also  suitable; 


. 


41 


for,  though  it  was  formed  three  Imndrod  years  ago,  it  is  a 
thing  of  yesterday  compared  with  “the  ei erlasting  1  tills," 
which  have  stood  from  the  beginning.  It  dates  from 
1)3S.  and  stands  near  the  shore  of  t}ie  hay  of  Baiae.  The 
earthquake  which  produced  Monte  Nuovo  ingulfed  the 
village  of  Tripergoli,  and  filled  up  a  great  part  of  the 
Lucrine  lake. 


THK  TEMPLE  OF  JUNO. 

This  temple  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  nearly 
two  thousand  years  ago,  on  the  margin  of  the  lake  of 
Avemus.  Tt  was  remarkable  for  its  beauty  and  magnifi¬ 
cence.  Nothing  now  remains  of  it  but  a  few  ruins. 

PUZZUOLI. 

Puzzuoli,  or  the  Pnteoli  of  the  New  Testament,  where 
Paul  landed  on  his  way  from  Home,  is  about  four  miles 
from  Naples,  was  erected  by  the  inhabitants  of  Cumae, 
and  owes  its  name  and  fame  to  the  Homans,  who,  two  cen¬ 
turies  B.  C.,  made  it  the  emporium  for  the  commerce  of 
the  east.  Its  situation  as  a  sea-port  is  unrivalled.  It 
stands  on  a  point  that  juts  out  a  little  into  the  sea,  nearly 
in  the  centre  of  a  fine  bay  called  Puzzolano.  What  must 
have  been  its  animation  and  splendor  when  the  riches  of 
the  east  poured  into  its  bosom,  and  its  climate,  baths,  and 
beauty,  allured  the  most  opulent  Romans  to  its  vicinity! 
Commerce  has  long  forsaken  it,  and  all  the  magnificence 
of  antiquity  has  been  undermined  by  time,  demolished  by 
barbarism,  or  levelled  in  the  dust  of  earthquakes.  But 
the  vestiges  that  remain,  shapeless  and  deformed,  are 
numerous  and  vast  enough  to  give  some  idea  of  its  an¬ 
cient  extent  and  grandeur.  Among  them  mav  be  mentioned 
the  amphitheatre  and  the  temple  of  Serapis.  The  amphi¬ 
theatre  was  unknown  till  within  a  very  few  years,  being 
entirely  buried,  not  improbably  by  volcanic  agency.  It 
has  been  wholh  excavated,  and  is  nearly  entire.  Tt  has 
forty-five  grading  or  tiers  of  seats.  The  temple  must 
have  been  a  grand  affair  in  its  day.  Its  marble  pa\e- 


4* 


' 


42 


ment  appears  to  be  nearly  perfect ;  it  is  covered  with 
about  two  feet  of  sea-water,  and  small  fishes  swim  over  it. 
Only  three  of  the  columns  are  standing,  and  these  have 
lost  their  capitals  ;  their  height  is  from  forty-five  to  fifty 
feet.  The  base  of  a  fallen  one  is  about  five  feet  in  diam¬ 
eter.  This  magnificent  temple,  and  the  size  of  the  am¬ 
phitheatre,  which  it  is  said  would  accommodate  45,000 
spectators,  are  proof  of  the  populousness  of  the  ancient 
Puteoli.  At  present  the  town  has  not  more  than  8,000 
or  10,000  inhabitants. 

Paul  rested  here  seven  days,  being  prayed  to  do  so  by 
the  brethren. 

PALACE  OF  QUEEN  J0ANA. 

This  was  formerly  one  of  the  most  spacious  and  mag¬ 
nificent  palaces  in  the  country,  and  was  the  residence  of 
Queen  Joana  of  Naples.  It  was  supposed  to  be  haunted, 
and  consequently  deserted  by  the  nobility,  and  is  now 
occupied  by  the  peasantry  and  lazzaroni. 

PAISILIPP0. 

Pausilippo,  a  hill  near  Naples,  with  a  large  and  beau¬ 
tiful  grotto.  'This  is  a  straight  passage  cut  through  the 
rock,  from  Naples  to  Puzzuoli ;  HO  to  90  foot  high,  from 
24  to  30  wide,  and  about  1.000  paces  long.  Through  the 
deep  night  of  this  grotto,  which,  though  high  and  wide, 
is  inaccessible  to  the  rays  of  the  sun,  passes  the  daily 
travel  of  a  very  populous  district.  A  powerful  echo  from 
the  roof  increases  the  rumbling  noise  of  the  passage. 
This  cavern,  of  which  so  many  fables  were  related  in  the 
time  of  Strabo,  was  probably  hewn  out  before  the  time  of 
the  Romans,  at  first  only  as  a  quarry,  but  afterwards  con¬ 
tinued  through  the  hill.  Alfonso  I.  enlarged  it.  It  was 
subsequently  made  broader  and  higher,  paved,  and  .pro¬ 
vided  with  air  holes.  The  whole  rock  is  firm,  and  ha*, 
never  been  shaken  by  earthquakes.  In  the  centre  th<  re 
is  a  Chapel  of  the  Virgin  Mary.  Sine*-  !  s22  the  \us- 
trian  troops  constructed  a  road  over  Puusilipp*  ‘  i’uz- 
zuoli,  by  which  the  passage  through  the  gt  >tt<>  may  Ik 
avoided. 


. 


43 


TOMB  OF  VIRGIL. 

Near  the  grotto  of  Pausilippo  are  the  ruins  of  an  aque¬ 
duct.  and  what  is  called  Virgil’s  tomb.  It  is  partly  covered 
with  ivy,  fig  trees,  and  brambles,  which  have  taken  root 
here,  and  on  the  top  of  it  is  a  laurel  tree  which  seems  to 
crow  n  it.  The  mausoleum,  on  the  inside,  is  about  18  feet 
square,  and  13  or  14  feet  high  from  the  floor  to  the  top 
of  the  roof.  The  ruins  of  this  mausoleum  are  very  pic¬ 
turesque.  The  whole  hill  is  covered  with  country  seats 
and  gardens  for  summer  resort,  being  protected  from  the 
hot  w  inds  of  the  south  and  west. 

CITY  OF  NAPLES. 

No  situation  for  a  city  could  be  finer  than  that  of  Na¬ 
ples,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  X.,  and  the  residence 
of  tin1  Sovereign.  Seated  partly  on  the  declivity  of  a  hill, 
partly  on  tin'  margin  of  a  spacious  bay,  it  spreads  its  build¬ 
ings  along  the  shore,  and  covers  the  shelving  coasts  and 
adjacent  eminences  with  its  villas  and  gardens.  Its  sub¬ 
urbs  stretch  in  one  magnificent  sweep,  from  Portici  on 
the  E.  to  the  promontory  of  Misenus  on  the  W.  The 
extensive  bay  presents  an  almost  unrivalled  assemblage 
of  picturesque  find  beautiful  scenery.  On  its  N.  W.  side, 
the  shores  of  Puzzuoli  rise  in  a  gentle  swell  from  the 
water;  while  on  the*  E.,  Vesuvius,  wuth  its  verdant  sides 
and  black,  smoking  summit,  bounds  the  prospect.  The 
centre  contains  the  city,  with  its  countless  palaces, 
churches,  and  gardens,  rising  one  above  the  other, 
backed  by  the  heights,  on  which  are  the  royal  palace 
of  Capo  di  Monte,  the  observatory,  and  the  grand  castle 
of  St.  Elmo.  The  view  from  the  city  seaward  commands 
the  whole  sweep  of  the  harbor,  bounded  on  the  S.  by  the 
promontory  of  Sorrentum,  and  having  near  its  mouth, 
Capri,  Ischia,  and  other  islands.  The  clearness  of  the 
atmosphere  and  the  mildness  of  the  climate,  complete  the 
gratification  inspired  by  the  scene,  and  justify  the*  epithet 
of  Mms,  given  to  the  city  by  the  ancients.  The  city  is 
of  an  oblong  form  ;  but,  when  beheld  from  an  elevated 
position,  such  as  the  (  arthusian  monastery,  the  castle  of 


44 


St.  Elmo,  or  the  church  of  Santa  Maria  del  Pastu,  it  ap¬ 
pears  irregular,  the  surrounding  country  being  so  studded 
with  houses  and  villages  that  it  is  impracticable  to  mark 
the  line  of  separation  between  the  town  and  the  environs. 

The  streets  are  generally  straight  and  well  paved, 
though  without  foot-paths;  but  they  are  narrow,  and,  be¬ 
ing  bordered  by  lofty  houses,  have,  many  of  them,  a  dark, 
gloomy  appearance,  that  contrasts  singularly  with  the 
splendor  of  the  surrounding  country.  The  Strada  di  To¬ 
ledo,  the  principal  street,  having  at  one  end  the  Piazza  di 
Mercato,  and  on  the  other  the  royal  palace,  runs  X.  and 
8.  for  about  a  mile;  it  is  from  40  to  00  feet  in  width, 
while  the  houses  on  either  side  are  from  five  to  seven  sto¬ 
ries  in  height.  Few  of  the  other  streets  are  more  than 
30  feet  wide,  many  not  more  than  from  15  to  20,  and 
some  not  so  much.  The  houses  are  flat  roofed,  and  cov¬ 
ered  with  a  kind  of  stucco  made  of  Puzzolano  sand, 
which  becomes  indurated  on  exposure  to  the  atmosphere. 
Most  of  them  have  balconies  in  front ;  and  these,  with 
the  booths  and  stalls  with  which  the  streets  are  constantly 
occupied,  make  them  look  narrower  than  they  really  are. 
There  are  several  open  spaces  or  /arc/hi ,  for  they  cannot 
be  called  squares ;  they  are  very7  irregular,  both  in  aspect 
and  plan.  'The  principal  are  decorated  with  fountains 
and  obelisks,  and  the  city,  on  the  whole,  is  well  supplied 
with  water. 

The  collections  of  paintings,  statues,  and  antiquities, 
in  Naples,  are  immense  and  invaluable.  It  would  require 
whole  volumes  to  give  an  enumeration  of  them. 

The  public  institutions  are  also  numerous,  and  some  of 
them  richly  endowed. 

In  1841,  Naples  had  a  population  of  350,000. 

Owing  to  its  mild  climate,  a  large  proportion  of  the 
people  inhabit  the  streets,  and  carry  on  their  business  out 
of  doors :  and  the  competition  of  parties  so  situated  has 
given  rise  to  that  universal  turmoil  and  effort  to  attract 
notice,  that  is  at  once  so  grotesque  and  so  annoying  to 
strangers.  Many  of  the  lazzaroni  are  noble  looking  per¬ 
sons,  without  a  blemish  in  form  or  features. 


45 


Naples,  in  its  interior,  has  no  parallel  on  earth.  The 
crowd  of  London  is  uniform  and  unintelligible;  it  is  double 
line  in  quick  motion  ;  it  is  the  crowd  of  business.  The 
crowd  of  Naples  consists  in  a  general  tide,  rolling  up  and 
down  ;  and  in  the  middle  of  this  tide,  a  hundred  eddies 
of  men.  Here  you  are  swept  on  by  the  current;  there 
you  arc  wheeled  round  by  the  vortex. 

A  diversity  of  trades  dispute  with  you  the  streets.  You 
are  stopped  by  a  carpenter’s  bench,  jou  are  lost  among 
shoemaker’s  stools,  you  dash  among  the  posts  of  a  maeca- 
roni  stall,  and  you  escape  behind  a  Lazzaroni’s  basket. 
In  this  region  of  caricature,  (‘very  bargain  sounds  like 
a  battle. 

The  people  seem  in  general  peaceful  and  contented  ; 
they  consume  little,  and  that  little  is  cheap.  For  three 
grains  a  day  a  man  has  his  till  of  maccaroni ;  and  for  three 
grains  more  he  may  have  his  friffasa,  very  good  fish  or 
vegetables,  and  fried  oil,  at  any  of  the  innumerable  stands 
of  itinerant  cooks  about  the  streets.  A  glass  of  ice-water 
costs  one  sixth  of  a  grain  ;  and.  if  properly  seasoned  with 
lime  and  sugar,  two  grains.  The  price  of  these  things  is 
kept  down  by  the  government ;  ice,  or  hardened  snow,  be¬ 
ing  abundantly  supplied  at  the  public  expense  from  natu¬ 
ral  ice-houses  in  certain  cavernous  rocks  above  the  Stabine 
and  Soraento,  and  even  on  V  esuvius.  The  ice  in  baskets, 
is  made  to  slide  down  the  mountain,  along  light  ropes, 
and  land  their  precarious  cargoes  before  day. 

4 'he  country  around  Naples  is  as  picturesque  and  beau¬ 
tiful  as  can  readily  be  imagined,  and  particularly  interest¬ 
ing  from  its  classical  associations. 


VESUVIUS. 


Vesuvius.  Rising  out  of  the  great  plain  of  Campania, 
this  is  the  only  volcano  of  consequence  on  the  European 
continent.  Only  seven  miles  south-south-east  of  Naples, 
it  is  usually  visited  by  strangers  there.  You  leave  Porti- 
ci,  ascending:  among:  cultivated  fields  and  vine  cards,  occa- 
sionally  traversed  by  streams  of  old  lava,  black,  rough,  and 
sterile,  and  in  an  hour  and  a  lalf  reach  the  Hermitage,  a 


46 


convent  where  a  few  monks  keep  a  sort  of  inn  for  visitors 
of  the  mountain.  Further  up  you  traverse  large  fields  of 
lava,  extremely  rough ;  and  at  the  base  of  the  cone,  pre¬ 
pare  for  the  ascent  over  a  heap  of  crumbling  ashes  and 
cinders,  extremely  steep.  In  about  an  hour,  stoppages  in¬ 
cluded,  you  find  yourself  on  extremely  hot  ground,  intol¬ 
erable  to  the  hand,  and  fatal  to  the  soles  of  your  shoes ; 
it  teems  with  hot  vapors,  and  is  covered  with  beautiful 
effervescences  of  sulphur.  Smoke  issues  from  numerous 
crevices,  at  the  entrance  of  which  a  piece  of  paper  or  a 
stick  takes  fire  in  a  few  seconds  ;  and,  what  seems  strange, 
a  stone  thrown  into  one  of  these  openings  increases  the 
smoke  at  all  the  others.  Stooping  low,  you  can  hear  a 
noise  very  like  that  of  a  liquid  boiling.  The  hard  but  thin 
crust  upon  which  you  stand,  appears  to  have  settled  down 
in  some  places ;  a  woful  indication  of  its  hollow  state. 
After  a  few  steps  more,  you  arrive  at  the  edge  of  the  cra¬ 
ter,  on  the  very  summit  of  the  cone,  being  a  slope  of  gray 
ashes  and  cinders,  much  like  that  by  which  you  ascended, 
and  scarcely  more  precipitous,  ending  at  the  depth  of  400 
or  500  feet,  in  a  level  place,  with  gray  ashes  like'  the  rest.  - 
The  view  from  the  summit  is  extremely  various,  exten¬ 
sive,  rich,  and  beautiful. 

ERUPTIONS  OF  VESUVIUS. 

From  the  earliest  records  down  to  the  reign  of  Titus 
Vespasian,  the  volcano  seems  to  have  been  inactive;  the 
appearance  of  its  crater  and  its  cavernous  structure  being 
the  onlv  indications  bv  which  Strabo  conjectured  that  it 
might  at  some  distant  period  have  been  on  fire ! 

But  in  the  first  year  of  Titus,  (A.  D.  79,)  the  volcano 
burst  forth  with  tremendous  energy.  The  flourishing 
cities  of  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii,  near  the  sea,  were 
both  overwhelmed  by  lava  and  ashes  !  Even  the  figure  of 
the  coast  was  changed  ;  and  for  more  than  1,600  years  all 
trace  of  the  buried  cities  was  completely  lost.  They  were  on¬ 
ly  accidentally  discovered  in  the  course  of  the  last  century. 
The  elder  Pliny  lost  his  life  during  this  dreadful  eruption  ; 


47 


which  has  been  described  by  the  younger  Pliny,  by  whom 
it  was  witnessed,  and  by  Tacitus.. 

Since  the  destruction  of  Herculaneum  and  Pompeii  there 
have  been  forty-five  eruptions  ;  none  of  them  equal  to  that 
in  destructive  power.  Of  those  which  happened  down  to 
the  l*2th  century,  we  have  few  accounts.  From  1138  to 
1631,  there  were  but  two  slight  eruptions  ;  during  this  in¬ 
terval,  however,  the  formation  of  Monte  Nuovo  in  the 
Phlegmon  Fields  took  place.  In  1631,  a  violent  eruption 
occurred,  and  seven  streams  of  lava  poured  from  the  crater. 
From  1666  to  the  present  time,  there  have  been  a  series 
of  eruptions,  the1  longest  intervals  between  them  rarely 
exceeding  ten  years.  The  last  eruption  was  in  January, 
1839.  The  energy  of  Vesuvius,  when  in  action,  is  ex¬ 
tremely  great,  and  the  spectacle  sublime.  In  the  erup¬ 
tion  of  1799,  jets  of  liquid  lava  were  thrown  up  to  the 
height  of  at  least  10,000  feet ;  having  the  appearance  of 
a  column  of  flames  ;  and  in  that  of  1793,  millions  of  red- 
hot  stones  were  shot  into  the  air  to  full  half  the  height 
of  the  cone  itself,  and  then  bending,  fell  all  round  in  an 
immense  arch,  covering  nearly  half  the  cone  with  fire. 


